• New Zealand (& Los Angeles) 11/18 - 12/18

LOS ANGELES & NEW ZEALAND

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

 

ITINERARY

 

TUESDAY – SATURDAY                                                                            LOS ANGELES

SATURDAY – MONDAY                                                                           LA/AUCKLAND

                  Flight to Auckland from LAX

MONDAY                                                                                                        AUCKLAND, NORTH ISLAND

TUESDAY – WEDNESDAY                                                                      TE ANAU, SOUTH ISLAND

Flight to Queenstown, drive to Te Anau

THURSDAY – SATURDAY                                                                      STEWART ISLAND

                  Drive to Invercargill, flight to Oban, SI

SUNDAY– MONDAY                                                                                 DUNEDIN, SOUTH ISLAND

                  Flight to Invercargill, drive to Dunedin

TUESDAY – WEDNESDAY                                                                      KAIKOURA, SOUTH ISLAND

                  Flight to Christchurch, drive to Kaikoura

THURSDAY – SATURDAY                                                                      BLENHEIM/NELSON/BRONTE, SOUTH ISLAND

Drive to Blenheim, Nelson, Bronte

SUNDAY – MONDAY                                                                                WELLINGTON, NORTH ISLAND

Flight from Nelson to Wellington

TUESDAY – WEDNESDAY                                                                      TAUPO, NORTH ISLAND

Drive to Taupo

THURSDAY – SATURDAY                                                                      WAIHEKE ISLAND

Drive to Auckland, ferry to Waiheke Island

SATURDAY                                                                                                      FLIGHT HOME

Helicopter to Auckland International Airport

 

LOS ANGELES

Stu and I planned a visit to Los Angeles to celebrate Thanksgiving with Kyrsten, Scot and the grandcats, nonchalant Duster and the reclusive Garbo, and decided to continue on to New Zealand afterwards.  We arrived early on Tuesday morning, quickly picked up our rental and drove to Pasadena to check in to the Langham Huntington.  It was a beautiful, sunny day so we decided to go to Griffith Park to check out the Observatory.  I had visited the park once many years ago, but Stu hadn’t been there and it was a good day to enjoy the views of the city and the iconic Hollywood sign. Parking is challenging so we enjoyed a nice hike up Mt. Hollywood to reach the observatory. There are a variety of programs in the planetarium, but we just toured the free exhibits on our own, which were well displayed and described. The white-washed building is beautiful with its copper domes and graceful art deco embellishments.  The interior central rotunda dome features colorful murals painted in 1934 by Hugo Ballin suspended over a pit with Foucault’s Pendulum dangling in it. The gorgeous ceiling depicts mythical astrological themes and the eight panels on the walls just beneath it celebrate “The Advancement of Science” and its progress from ancient to modern times covering Time, Astronomy, Aeronautics, Navigation, Metallurgy & Electricity, Mathematics & Physics, Geology & Biology and Engineering. After exploring the grounds, we had sushi for lunch at Asanebo in nearby Studio City.

That evening we joined Kyrsten and Scot for dinner at Trois Mec, celebrity chef Ludo Lefevre’s flagship restaurant, which was unfortunately disappointing. We spent the next 2 days at their house having fun catching up while prepping and then feasting on Thanksgiving dinner. On Friday we all headed downtown to get our art fix at The Broad.  We had tickets timed for the museum opening hour and spent some time walking around the gleaming Frank Gehry designed Walt Disney Concert Hall with its sensuous stainless steel curves and lovely gardens before entering the museum.  We came across a sexy photo shoot but were mainly on our own so early. The Broad is free but is enormously popular so it pays to get tickets on-line in advance to avoid disappointment, especially since there were 2 fabulous Yayoi Kusama Infinity Mirror exhibits on display at that time, one that you sign up to see after entering the museum, while the other only required waiting on line. Having arrived well before the museum opened, we were among the first to enter and just walked into both of the Kusama exhibits, which were dazzling!  Eli and Edythe Broad founded the museum to showcase their impressive contemporary collection featuring giants of the art world such as Picasso, Johns, Koons, Lichtenstein, Warhol, Hirst, Basquiat, Kelly, Stella, Rosenquist and Rauschenberg as well as fascinating works by artists such as Kara Walker and Mark Tansey. 

 

We grabbed lunch at Vespaio since it is conveniently located a few steps from the museum. There’s a dining room with table service, an outdoor section and a more casual café section for a quick bite.  The food was better than we expected, service was attentive and the room is attractive, so it served our need.  We had tried to get a table at Otium, which is also nearby, however the wait was too long without a reservation.    

 

From there we headed to the Arts district to enjoy the mural art, sample some ice cream from Salt & Straw and browse around the little boutiques.  We still had some time before dinner so we took advantage of the reciprocal privileges afforded by our Metropolitan Museum of Art membership to check out the galleries at LA County Museum of Art for free.  A jazz band was setting up in the outdoor plaza when we arrived and after viewing the art we stayed awhile to listen.  Dinner was at République in the beautiful space where we used to greatly enjoy Campanile in years past.  We shared a bunch of dishes and wine and generally enjoyed the meal very much.

 

On our last day in LA we had breakfast with our dear friends Alan and Robert and spent the remainder of the time before our non-stop flight to Auckland with Kyrsten and Scot, hanging out and polishing off some of the leftovers from Thanksgiving.

 

NEW ZEALAND

The last time we visited Auckland was in 1997 when we spent three weeks in Fiji, and we had self-toured around the North and South Islands by car and plane in 1991, so a lot has changed since then. New Zealand is justifiably famous for its spectacular scenery and outdoor pursuits.  However with bats being the only native land mammal, back then we hadn’t considered it to be a wildlife destination so only enjoyed the scenery and adventure activities, like speed boating and bungee jumping. In fact, the variety of sea mammals and birds make it a highly desirable place to view animals, so we wanted to focus on wildlife this time, as well as learning more about the Maori culture, which we’d just touched on last time.

Being penguin lovers, and having viewed 12 of the 18 species of penguins in their native habitats, we realized that New Zealand and its sub-Antarctic islands are home to 5 species of penguin, including 4 endemic species which we’d never seen (Fiordland Crested Penguin, Yellow-Eyed Penguin, Snares Penguin and Erect-Crested Penguin).  And while we’d viewed Little Blue, aka Fairy, Penguins in Australia, we always love seeing them.  We also regretted having missed the sperm whales in Kaikoura during our 1991 visit, so we set out to discover NZ wildlife and culture.  Our plan was to only visit places we hadn’t seen before, aside from Auckland, and though we ended up returning to a couple of areas, our experiences there were very different this time around.

AUCKLAND

We flew Air New Zealand to Auckland and it was a relaxing flight with decent food, though I admit that we were a tad disappointed that the safety video didn’t attain the more whimsical and creative heights for which ANZ is renowned. During the next 3 weeks we flew the airline’s small planes domestically 3 times and all of the flights were comfortable and on time with agreeable service.  The regional airports are great, clean and functional.  We almost forgot how pleasant is it to take a flight without going through heavily intrusive security or having to walk 2 miles to the gate.

We’d reserved our room at the Hilton Prince’s Wharf the night before so we could go straight to our room upon arrival to shower and change and explore the city.  We were pleased to have a lovely view of the harbor and also to find a goody bag from our travel agent with useful items such as insect repellent and Manuca balm.  We walked to the Auckland Fish Market, which seemed to be closed for renovations, so we continued inland to the Auckland Art Gallery.  The collection is somewhat eclectic with focus on local artists, our favorite paintings were a gallery of portraits of influential Maori chiefs and other native notables.  We browsed in an art gallery across the street from the museum with large format photos of the NZ landscape and chatted with the friendly owner, sheltering there for a time during a heavy downpour.  The sun came back out by lunchtime which we enjoyed at an outdoor table with a harbor view at Soul Bar & Bistro, which specializes in seafood. The food was terrific, service was very good and the setting superb.  We wandered a bit more before heading back to the hotel to relax.  We had dinner at The Grove, an intimate fine dining restaurant adjacent to the pretty St. Patrick’s Church.  We enjoyed the meal enormously, food and wine were excellent, the room is lovely and service was impeccable.

TE ANAU

We flew to Queenstown in the South Island, arriving around midday, and had a couple of hours drive to Te Anau, so we stopped for lunch at a casual place in a small shopping mall near the airport called Odelay. We really enjoyed the food and atmosphere.  It’s a good choice for travelers needing a quick breakfast or lunch in a convenient location.

The drive to Te Anau is unbelievably beautiful with panoramic views of the aptly named Remarkable Mountains and tranquil Lake Wakatipu. Since it was the end of spring wildflowers bloomed by the roadsides while snow still capped the higher mountains. The tiny town of Te Anau nestles on the shores of the same named lake, the largest on the South Island.  Travelers usually come here to explore the magnificent Fiordland National Park, NZ’s largest NP, as we had done during our first visit, so we hadn’t expected to return on this trip.  I had read that Fiordland Crested Penguins can be found farther north near Lake Moeraki, but it is very remote and involves a lot of time and distance to reach.  Kim, our travel agent, advised that this species can also be found along Martins Bay near Milford Sound.  While most visitors hike several days to reach Martins Bay and stay in a bunk-bedded hikers’ hut, Kim arranged for a helicopter to transport us from Milford to the bay, saving a whole lot of time and effort.

We drove straight to Prospect House, a beautiful B&B with 2 guest rooms on a hill with extraordinary views of Lake Te Anau, surrounding mountains and the town.  The owner, Joan, and her daughter, Rebecca, told us about a bird sanctuary nearby where we could find some rare species.  We had planned to have dinner in town and decided to stop by on the way there.  It’s a small but interesting reserve and we were thrilled to get close up looks at 3 rare flightless Takahes, a member of the rail family with dark blue and purple plumage and bright red bill.  There were also handsome Paradise Shelducks, the females with white heads and the males with black heads, Grey Ducks with a couple of fuzzy ducklings, a Morepork (a spotted owl), a Kaka (a native parrot), a parakeet and several endemic and ubiquitous Tui, feeding on flax nectar.  This nectar can sometimes ferment, inebriating the birds and leading to comical behavior.  It was definitely worth spending some time there.  In town, we walked along the lake front and spotted some attractive Chaffinches on the rocky shore.  We had dinner at a very popular place called Redcliff Café with charming, rustic decor.  Some of the servers were foreign students working their way around NZ, including ours, a helpful and gregarious young Dutch woman.  The food was good though it did not live up to its reputation.

The following morning our guide, Steve, the owner of Trips & Tramps, picked us up at Prospect House and drove us to Milford, the small town at the base of Milford Sound, one of the most popular fiords in the country.  There’s a parking area outside Milford where cheeky and highly intelligent Kea, the only alpine parrot species in the world, tend to hang out.  If you park there they get their kicks nipping at your tires and other rubber parts of the vehicle with their impressive bills, completely unintimidated by humans.  We saw our first Kea in this exact spot 27 years earlier and given how long-lived they are, we might have met the same ones this time. There had been rain on previous days so we saw lots of waterfalls during the drive. 

The helicopter ride to Martin’s Bay and our time there exceeded our wildest expectations. The weather was glorious, sunny and clear, a very fortuitous condition since the area tends toward fog in the warmer months. When we visited Milford Sound in 1991 it was cloudy and foggy so the much photographed Mitre’s Peak was partially visible, but it was clear as a bell this time.  We flew above the mountains, sound and alpine lakes and in about 20 minutes landed on a grassy strip near the shore.  When planning the trip we learned that this is the end of the nesting season for the Fiordland Crested Penguins and they would soon be returning to the sea.  We planned the itinerary to start in Te Anau specifically to maximize our chances of seeing them.  After an easy 20 minute hike to the hiker’s hut along a gorgeous route, we continued a short distance further and approached the rocky beach that the penguins often frequent.  Steve tried to prepare us for disappointment, saying that we might not see any penguins this late in the season.  At which point I turned towards the rocks and pointing to a nearby penguin, said “there’s one”.  It was totally adorable with an extravagant yellow crest, thick orange bill and bubble-gum pink feet. We continued further on to another beach where we encountered a colony of sleek New Zealand fur seals and a penguin couple. To our utter joy we ended up spending quality time watching the activity of 6 Fiordland Crested Penguins, including a shy chick in a burrow up a cliff that Steve knew about. We dug into an ample picnic lunch that Steve’s wife had prepared while perched on the rocks surrounded by fur seals, admiring them and the gorgeous sea view.  After a while one bold young seal decided that he wanted our spot so we obligingly moved.

We headed back to the hut to await the helicopter, which showed up quite a bit later than expected.  By this time clouds had begun to fill the skies so the ride back was still fun but not quite as spectacular as the other way.  It was a long drive back to Te Anau and we caught a touch of rain on the way, but it didn’t matter because we’d had a perfect day.  That evening Joan served canapés and wine and we greatly enjoyed chatting with her family before heading to town for dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Paradiso, a casual Italian restaurant with decent food.

 

STEWART ISLAND/RAKIURA

It’s about a 2 hour drive to Invercargill Airport from Te Anau so we left right after breakfast in order to arrive in time for our 20 minute journey on Stewart Island Flights.  The airport was clean and modern with only 5 gates, surprisingly sweet smelling restrooms, free fast Wi-Fi, and a small café with very good coffee.  Check-in and boarding were a breeze. While we could have taken a one hour ferry, we enjoyed the flight. It was on a small plane with only 9 passengers and the views were eye-popping.  Stewart Island, whose Maori name, Rakiura, roughly translates as Land of the Glowing Skies, is about 30 km/19 mi. from the South Island across the Foveaux Strait, and is the third largest of NZ’s archipelago. About 85% of the island is a protected nature reserve and an ideal place to see wildlife. Of course, being New Zealand, it’s also exceedingly picturesque. The airline transported us from the airstrip to their office in the main town, Oban, where we were picked up by Chris, who owns Church Hill Lodge with his wife Deanne, and where we would spend the next 3 nights. It was a short drive up the hill to the lodge, which has marvelous views over the town and harbor. 

We totally adored Church Hill Lodge!  Chris and Dee are delightful and the accommodations were even more posh than we expected.  Chris gave us a tour of the place and our beautiful room, explaining meal times, laundry, etc.  After we unpacked we walked down to have a look at Oban and grab some lunch. With only about 400 residents spread out in the area surrounding the town, there were only 2 main streets and some smaller arteries with a handful of businesses. It was early in the season and most of the small food places were not open yet, so the main choice was the pub at the South Sea Hotel, which is nicely situated across the road from the bay and a green space with a giant chess board.  We arrived too late for lunch service so we went to the mini-mart next door and picked up a couple of prepackaged chicken sandwiches which we took back to our room and ate outdoors on our private balcony.  While there a Kereru, a beautiful endemic wood pigeon species with iridescent feathers and white belly, landed in a tree nearby affording us a long, close view. Dee had left us some home-baked treats which were a nice finish to the meal along with a coffee from the in-room Nespresso machine. I had advised our agency that I drink decaf, and found that Chris had thoughtfully stocked decaf pods for me.   As it turned out, Dee would have whipped something up for us if we’d asked even though they don’t normally serve lunch, but the sandwiches were fine. 

Before dinner Chris invited us to join the other guests, Owen and Anne, who live in Wellington, for complimentary cocktails, canapés and conversation before dinner and he and Dee joined us for a bit as well. Owen and Anne were very well travelled, having lived in Japan and the US before heading back to NZ to settle, and Chris and Dee also travel quite a bit during the off-season, so we all had a lot to talk about. Meals at Church Hill were excellent, so much better than you’d expect in such a remote place, and better than the places where we dined in Te Anau and Dunedin.  At this time of year days are long, so it was still light during dinner and we had a perfect quiet table with a view of the harbor.  There’s outside seating as well, and though the day was mild and sunny, it was still a bit chilly at night for outdoor dining.  Our server, a young Maori named Danny, was charming and helpful.  For dinner I started with a local specialty, whitebait fritters, and Stu had a savory pumpkin soup. Next was tender flavorful crayfish, which I selected from the ultra-clean tank, served with polenta fries and salad, and Stu had delicious salmon with fresh vegetables.

Stewart Island is notorious for rainy, unpredictable weather so we were delighted to luck out once again with clear skies. After a filling breakfast of fruit, oat porridge and crumpets we met Ange from Beaks & Feathers, who would be our guide for the next 2 days.  Ange is amazing!  She knows everything and is really fun to be around. We started our tour with a quick water taxi ride to Ulva Island.  Only 3.5 km/2.17 mi. long with about 4.5 km/2.8 mi. of walking tracks, it is a predator-free wildlife preserve for the flightless Kiwi, endangered native birds, and native trees and plants. Ange described the painstaking measures used to rid the island of rats and keep it rodent-free.  The island has an interesting history.  It was settled in 1872 by a Postmaster, Charles Traill, at a time when mail arrived by boat, and the post office operated there until 1923, also serving as a social hub.  She told us that people would write on the back of the broad leathery leaves of the Ragiora tree, stamp them and mail them as novelty postcards.

It’s said that in 1899 Traill gifted most of the land to the government on the condition that it be preserved, though his ancestors still own part of it privately.  You can spot their luxurious home on Post Office Bay.  The Department of Conservation manages the public lands. We saw loads of birds on Ulva Island, the bold Weka, distinctive South Island Saddlebacks (Tieke), common Tomtits, cute grey and white Stewart Island Robins (Toutouwai), red-billed Black Oystercatchers (Torea), dramatic Fantails (Piwakawaka), Tui, sweet-voiced Bellbirds (Korimako), Kereru, Kaka, the tiny beautiful South Island Rifleman and gorgeous shamrock green Red-Crowned Parakeets (Kakariki).  We came upon Owen and Anne, who were fortunate enough to see a Kiwi scurry quickly across the path in front of them, but despite Ange’s best tracking efforts we didn’t spot one in the daytime.  Ange also described the native tree species such as Miro, Totara, Rata, Kamahi and the towering Rimu, a variety of ferns and mosses, including aptly named umbrella moss, wharawhara plants and delicate little orchids.  Ferns are an important Maori symbol, their spiral curl representing rebirth, and this form is often seen in native painting, carving and graphics.  Ange dropped us off in town for lunch and this time South Sea was serving. Stu had blue cod fish and chips, the fish was good but the fries were soggy.  I had green-lipped mussels which were large and plump though the broth they were in was tasteless.  After lunch Chris kindly dropped us at the far end of Horseshoe Bay and we took a hike along the shore back to town.  The road climbed and dipped so the views were breathtaking and we spotted Tui, Fantails, Paradise Ducks and Pied Shags, handsome cormorants, black and white with a patterned back, blue eyes and a touch of yellow near the eye.  We came across some young women sunbathing on the macabre-named Dead Man’s Beach and a posse of intrepid boys boogie boarding in the gentle but frigid waves of Half Moon Bay, only some wearing wetsuits. A majestic White-Faced Heron stalked prey in a marshy area near the beach.

After drinks and yummy fried zucchini and house-smoked salmon on toast with beet garnish with Anne and Owen, we decided to join them for dinner.  We savored the most scrumptious blue cod of our lives served with vegetables fresh from Dee’s garden and luscious potato pancakes while greatly enjoying the company of our fellow guests.  After dinner we were all going off for evening wildlife tours, Anne and Owen were with a different company and we were meeting Ange again. 

First she took us to Ackers Point to see the Sooty Shearwaters as they returned to their burrows after a day at sea. On the walk to the Point we passed Ackers Cottage, a historic stone hut with a tin roof built by an American whaler around 1836 that is the oldest whaling cottage in New Zealand.  It wasn’t open however we peeked in the windows and saw that there are still some antique articles from that era inside.  The best part was that a few weeks earlier Ange had noticed a dilapidated wooden box on the grounds and peeking inside out of curiosity discovered that a Little Blue penguin had commandeered it as a nest.  It was a perfect choice to hide in plain sight since it really looked like just abandoned junk.  The last time she was there a couple of days earlier there had still been only the egg, but to our sheer delight the chick had hatched in the interim, and there were not one but two fuzzy grey newborn chicks snuggling with their mother. We’d never seen Blue Penguin chicks before so this was especially thrilling.  Our night would have been made with this encounter alone, but there was much more to come.

As their name suggests Sooty Shearwaters are grey sea birds that somewhat resemble large seagulls. They’re graceful flyers and large numbers of them zoomed around us preparing to land. We managed to see a couple sitting on land so we could get a closer look.  On the walk back to Ange’s car, we came across several adult Blue Penguins toddling up to their burrows. We continued on to the airstrip to find Kiwi. Yes, we were surprised to hear that we were going to the airstrip, however, it turns out to be an excellent place to see Kiwi.  The area is restricted but Ange’s company has a license, and a key, to bring guests at night.  As we walked onto the field I asked Ange if she ever took people out to see Kiwi and didn’t see them and she said no, they’re just harder to find at times depending on the height of the grass. Contrary to intuition they’re easier to find when the grass is high since they feel safer and come out on the field more.  In low grass they feel more exposed.  The field had been mowed recently so the grass was low, but it didn’t prevent us from seeing 3 Kiwi males.  Two of them were younger and a bit timid, but the third one seemed to be oblivious to our presence and we followed him for a long time as he foraged in the grass.  Ange used a red flashlight to avoid disturbing them.  Stu was able to take photos without a flash, however they looked like something out of a horror film, the birds bathed in garish red, so he simply processed them as black and white images.  We learned that there are 5 main Kiwi species in New Zealand with variations among these 5, the Little Spotted Kiwi (smallest), the Great Spotted Kiwi (largest), the Brown Kiwi (North Island), the Rowi or Okarito (South Westland) and the Tokoeka, which is the species found in Fiordland, the Haast range and Rakiura. The Rowi and Tokoeka are both types of Brown Kiwi. It’s estimated that there are about 15 – 20,000 Tokoeka Kiwi on Rakiura and they’re a bit larger than you might picture, as much as 2-3 lbs., though every bit as appealing, with their round feathery bodies, long bills and large feet. Since they don’t fly they do not have hollow bones and their feathers look more like hair, unlike most bird species.  Their eyesight is poor which is not a great disadvantage when nocturnal, but they more than make up for that with a keen sense of smell. They are the only bird with nostrils at the end of their beaks, which they use effectively to sniff out worms, grubs, insect larvae, centipedes, spiders, crickets and Weta, an endemic flightless cricket-like insect.  Kiwi mate for life but will select another partner if their mate dies.  Ange told us about one large and older female who outlived several mates and is still reproducing.  The female Tokoeka lay one egg twice per year and the couple generally both incubate the egg for about 70-80 days, sometimes with the help of older siblings. We found out that Owen and Anne didn’t see any Kiwi on their night tour, but at least they got to see the one on Ulva Island.  Our takeaway is to go out with Beaks & Feathers.

The weather forecast for the next day was iffy and we were supposed to take a water taxi to Port William for a 9 km hike with a guy on Ange’s team.  Ange said that this is more of a scenery than wildlife tour and might not be very comfortable if it rained, so she suggested that we might want to take a harbor tour in the morning instead with a chance of seeing more birds as well as sea lions. This sounded better to us, especially since we specifically came to see birds, plus who doesn’t enjoy a boat ride on a calm inlet.  She spoke to Rakiura, the young boho German guy who runs a water taxi service (yes, his parents named him after the island) and he advised that he had to drop some hikers off at the river inlet first thing, but we could ride along and do some touring on the way back, so we agreed to this change of plans.  It also worked out well for Ange since there was a big wedding of a young local couple that afternoon that most of the islanders were attending including her.

It was sunny in the morning and the boat ride to the river was lovely.  We motored around the harbor spying graceful White-fronted Terns, Red-billed Gulls and a flock of Royal Spoonbills.  We passed by an old Whaling Station and stopped to see a variety of shags, the all black Little Shag, black and white Pied Shag and a juvenile Spotted Shag. At “The Snuggery”, a shag nesting site, proud parents tended their downy chicks in spiky twig nests.  Farther on, we trailed some New Zealand sea lions, the most rare sea lion species and once known as Hooker’s sea lion, as they cavorted in the bay and hauled out on the beach.

After the boat tour Ange dropped us in town and we decided to check out Rakiura Jade, a studio where local pounamu (greenstone or jade) is carved into beautiful jewelry and artwork, which is for sale.  If you’re artistic you can sign up for a jade carving workshop.  The owner, Dave, is an interesting character and if you have time, well worth chatting up. If you’re lucky his adorable dog will play with you also. Pounamu is very important to the Maori who believe that it has mystical power for protection and often pass amulets down as treasures from one generation to the next. Dave’s wife told us that you confer some of your mana (authority, prestige, honor, power, charisma) when you touch the stone that is in turn passed on to others who touch it. There’s a large hunk of jade by the door that she encourages everyone to touch when they enter or leave the shop.

We had time to have a look around the Rakiura Museum which features interesting artifacts from the island, including a stamped leaf postcard from the Ulva Island post office.  There were old typewriters and sewing machines, pipes, octants, scrimshaw and whaling implements and historical photos. If you can catch it open it’s worth the small entrance fee.  We had lunch at the South Sea again and ran into Dee and Chris in the pub. The weather continued to be better than expected that day, so we wanted to take a hike in the afternoon. Chris gave us directions to 3 interesting areas and even loaned us his car to drive to the hiking spots since they were spread out.  He and Dee really go above and beyond to enhance your experience.  

We started out at Fern Gully, due west of town, hiking through a lush primeval forest alongside a stream.  It was an easy walk and truly tranquil and lovely.  From there we drove north to Lee Bay, a spectacular strand of beach that starts the Rakiura Track, a 32 km trail through Rakiura National Park which extends to Port William.  It was a section of this track that we had originally planned to hike from the other end.  We didn’t have 3 days to get to Port William, so we progressed a bit around the bay then turned back. We ran into several young backpackers planning to go the distance, staying overnight in hiking huts or camping along the way.  We weren’t the only ones who found the beach to be gorgeous as we spotted the wedding party on the beach taking photos. Some of the groomsmen were urinating against the high dunes, perhaps having started tippling before the reception. There were quite a large number of attendants dressed in navy blue suits and dresses, with more groomsmen than bridesmaids, and two adorable blonde flower girls, dressed in white lace like the bride.

When we got back to the lodge, we showed Chris the wedding photos and he asked us to send them to him.  He was treating the newlyweds to their wedding night in the Foveaux room at the lodge, which has an outdoor hot tub, so he made large prints of the photos and hung them in the room to surprise the couple when they returned from the reception.  We felt so happy to take a small part in this important island celebration.  Chris told us the next day that they were very surprised and pleased.  Aside from the newlyweds, who returned late and whom we never ran into or even heard, we were the only guests staying at the lodge that night, so Chris and Dee joined us for drinks along with amazing crispy kale and Caprese on a spoon made with fresh buffalo mozzarella. For dinner we had tender and tasty rack of lamb and steak with fresh garden vegetables. There were other visitors at the restaurant so we didn’t have the dining room to ourselves, which is just as well. We would have felt guilty if Dee and Chris had missed the wedding reception just to cook for us.  Stewart Island is a special place, I wish we could have spent more time there. 3 days is just enough for the major activities, but if you enjoy long hikes you could spend considerably more time.

DUNEDIN AND OTAGO PENINSULA

The return flight was a couple of hours late due to fog (the only foggy weather we had while on the island), but we’re glad we flew rather than taking the ferry, which was still a backup plan in case the flights were grounded longer. It’s about a 3 hour drive from Invercargill to Dunedin, so with the late start we arrived later than anticipated.  Fletcher Lodge is located up a steep hill from the center of town, an area called The Octagon. It’s a lovely former industrialist’s home transformed into a charming B&B.  It was an ideal place to stay in Dunedin, in such a historical town it captured the atmosphere of a bygone era while still offering modern amenities.  Upon entering the foyer of our room we found a sideboard beneath a hanging tapestry with a carafe of port and a dish of fruit, plus plates, napkins and utensils,. We had missed lunch so we devoured the fruit before heading out to explore the town.

Dunedin is such a charming city!  I had read about the flourishing street art scene and had downloaded a map of the major murals.  We mentioned to Ewa, Fletcher Lodge’s owner along with her husband Keith, that we planned to view the street art and she gave us very useful tips and orientation to help us find them more easily.  We walked around town for a few hours viewing the street art and were very impressed with the quality and quantity of it.  Had we realized just how good it was we probably would have arranged for a guided tour to learn more about the artists, although some were international artists whose work we’ve viewed in other cities and know something about.  We particularly enjoy the work of Phlegm from the UK and Pixel Pancho from Italy, though there were captivating works by artists from New Zealand and Australia as well. 

 

In addition to the paintings, there are very attractive historical buildings to see, including First Church, an elegant Gothic style Presbyterian church opened in 1873, and the magnificent Baroque black basalt and white limestone Railway Station, open for operation in 1906. While it was the busiest train station in the country during Dunedin’s heyday, these days you can catch sightseeing trains from there to scenic Taieri Gorge or seaside routes. If we’d had more time, we probably would have taken a ride. The interior of the station is almost as ornate as the exterior with colored tiles and beautiful stained glass windows. Across the road from the train station in nearly equally grand style is the 1902 High Court building. The Otago Peninsula was home to Maori communities for centuries before the Scots began emigrating there in the mid 1800’s giving Dunedin its Scottish name. During the boom years of the gold rush from 1861 - 1881 Dunedin was the largest city in New Zealand, but is now around 7th largest by population. For compelling historical fiction about this colorful era, I can highly recommend the novel The Luminaries, the Man Booker prize winner by NZ native Eleanor Catton.  After all of the walking, we were happy to sit down to dinner at a casual family-owned Italian restaurant grandly named Etrusco at the Savoy, on the top floor of a building dating to 1914.

 

The next day our wildlife tour of the peninsula didn’t begin until 1 pm so we had time to continue seeing the sights in town during the morning.  We headed down to the Octagon, where you can find restaurants and shops, to visit the Dunedin Public Art Gallery, a modern building displaying a small but enjoyable collection of New Zealand, Australian, European and Japanese art.  The nearby cathedral was quite austere and not nearly as appealing as the First Church.  We walked back towards the railway station to visit the Toitu Otago Settlers Museum in an attractive modern glass building adjacent to the station.  What a gem!  Entrance is free though you’re encouraged to contribute to the museum’s upkeep.  The first thing you encounter inside is a striking steam locomotive from 1872 named Josephine.  You can read how local schoolchildren spearheaded a drive to fund its restoration in the 1960s. The museum intelligently curates and presents a fascinating collection of artifacts illuminating the history and culture of the Maori and European settlers in Dunedin and the Otago region, including multi-media exhibits and a genealogy room of portraits and family histories.  A young docent whom we were chatting with advised us to check out a special suffrage exhibit (running through July 2019).  New Zealand has the distinction of being the first country in the world to grant women the vote in 1893, more than a quarter century before American women were accorded that right in 1920. We had also come across a mural commemorating this event in Auckland near the art museum.  We were told that our afternoon tour would end around 9 pm, so we picked up a couple of sandwiches at an Iconic Café kiosk in the museum to eat for dinner. On the other side of the railway station is the original Iconic Café where we decided to have lunch.  It was a great choice, it’s a handsome room with genial service and fresh delicious food. I had an outstanding meltingly-tender miso salmon on a bed of vegetables and Stu enjoyed a steak sandwich. 

We walked back to Fletcher Lodge to meet our guide, Tony, from Elm Wildlife Tours.  The best part of the day by far was the Peninsula tour with Tony.  We had an appointment at the Royal Albatross Center where you can learn about and see these majestic birds, but we had extra time, so he took us first to some wildlife areas where we saw a variety of birds, such as Royal Spoonbills, Pukekos, Masked Lapwings, Black Swans, Paradise Ducks with ducklings, and Gannets on the wing.  We were blown away by an adorable Little Owl perched on a branch eyeing us fiercely. Red stained feathers around his bill seemed to suggest that he’d just finished lunch. 

 

Tony left us at the Albatross center where we joined a group tour.  While waiting we watched Red-billed Gulls who were nesting with their chicks on the lawns surrounding the facility. The tour started with a lecture and video about the Royal Albatross.  They’re impressive birds with a wingspan that can reach 3 meters (9 ft) and a lifespan that averages 30-40 years, but can extend far beyond that.  The guide, Christine, told us about a 60 year old female, nicknamed Grandma, who had survived multiple mates and was still producing babies. Females generally have one chick which they raise for a year and then take a year off.  Mates separate during that time to travel and reunite for the next mating.  While usually monogamous, if their partner doesn’t return, they will choose another mate. Fledglings travel vast distances for about 5 years before returning to their birth site to find a mate.  After the presentation, we walked up a path to a hide overlooking the area where the albatross nest.  There were many flying around and a few nesting in the tall grass. As we watched, one landed awkwardly and settled down to rest.  

 

We enjoyed seeing the albatrosses, but the real thrill was seeing the endemic Yellow-Eyed Penguins or Hoiho.  Tony drove us some distance to a sheep farm located above a protected beach populated by NZ fur seals, NZ/Hooker’s sea lions, Yellow-Eyed Penguins and other sea birds.  We first stopped at a rocky cove to see a fur seal colony who shared the cove with black-backed gulls, and were pleased to find many pups, including a mother nestling with a newborn less than 24 hours old according to Tony. We descended to the beach where lounging sea lions warily monitored us as we made our way towards the cliffs where the penguins dwell.  We discovered two pale green, black-spotted Black Oystercatcher eggs, exposed and vulnerable on the sand, though their upset mother soon came over to chase us away and sit on them protectively.  

 

Tony spotted two plump Yellow-Eyed juveniles hanging out on the cliff and an adult mating pair farther up near the top.  Unlike most penguins, who tend to congregate in large colonies, the Yellow-Eyed Penguins are generally solitary except when pairing for mating.  One of the rarest and most endangered penguin species on earth, Hoiho suffer from predation by introduced species such as feral cats, ferrets and stoats.  Human activity also impacts nesting sites.  They are a bit odd looking, most likely because of their eerie pale yellow eyes (most penguins have dark brown or red eyes, though Blue Penguins have pale blue-grey eyes). Juveniles don’t sport the bright yellow crown found on adults that encircles their heads from eye to eye. We watched the penguins from the beach for a while and then Tony advised that it was the time of evening when penguins begin to return to their burrows from the sea, so we ascended the cliff to a wooden hide about half way up.  No sooner had we settled into the hide when a penguin swam towards shore, emerged from the sea and waddled slowly up the beach near us, pausing frequently to look around and groom its feathers. Our dream come true!  On his way up the cliff he stopped briefly to interact with the loitering juveniles before continuing on alone.  After the penguin was safely out of range, we continued up to another blind near the cliff top to get a closer look at the mating pair who were still near there.  During this time the juveniles moved on.  As we were leaving the first blind a tour group arrived to take our place. When we left the second blind that group came up to occupy it and as we walked back to our vehicle we passed a large tour group just arriving.

 

It really pays to take the private tour. We arrived over an hour before the larger tour groups so we had the beach to ourselves almost the whole time that we were there.  It seems that the private tour runs 1 pm – 6 pm and the group tours start around 3:30 pm and runs until about 8:30 pm.  We were back to the lodge by 7 pm and ate sandwiches in our room, after which I had a relaxing soak in the deep claw-footed tub.

 

KAIKOURA

Ewa served a luscious breakfast of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon on an English muffin. Well-fortified, it was an easy drive to Dunedin airport and a short flight to Christchurch. We picked up a new rental car and drove north to Kaikoura, about a 3 hour journey. We had planned to break for lunch along the way, but the place I’d mapped out about half way there was closed, and we didn’t find an alternative, plus traffic was slow due to some roadwork.  We waited until we pulled into the small coastal town of Kaikoura and stopped at Poppy’s Handmade Ice Cream Parlour for a cup of smooth and rich salted caramel ice cream, a treat for Stu who’d done all of the driving. The young man behind the counter was charming.  Kaikoura, an evocative Maori name meaning meal of crayfish, teems with sea life, as well as boasting spectacular vistas of limpid blue sea and the rugged snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura Mountains, an extension of the Southern Alps.  It’s most famous for attracting male sperm whales who feed there year round.  Sperm whales are toothed whales who feed on large pelagic fish but their favorite meal is squid, including the elusive Giant Squid which can grow to 18 meters (54 ft).  They are the deepest diving mammal in the world, and can dive for up to 2 hours to 3000 meters (>9800 feet) though most dives last from 40 – 60 minutes.  We had come to Kaikoura specifically to see these awe-inspiring giants, the subject of Melville’s harrowing tale Moby Dick.

 

Our lodgings, Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses, are located a few miles north of town off Route 1.  We had booked one of the tree houses and were elated by the views of the sea and mountains from our perch.  A small heard of red deer with impressive antlers grazed and Karearea (NZ falcons) chased each other acrobatically above the grove of olive trees on the property.  Dinner was included in the room rate at the lodge and served in an elegant dining room.  Crayfish incurs a supplemental cost, but it’s worth it to try one of the local specialties.  We started with a simple salad, I savored the crayfish then a small selection of local cheeses and Stu had lamb with crispy spinach then chocolate mousse.  There was a good selection of NZ wines by the glass including a lovely sparkler from the Marlborough region.

 

We had to leave very early for our whale watch voyage, so they delivered a hamper breakfast to our room to consume before heading out.  It wasn’t very good but it sufficed.  Arising early meant experiencing a glorious sunrise.  We drove to the Whale Watch Kaikoura building and checked in. We had reserved a spot on the first boat of the day.  Our luck held out and the weather remained clear and sunny, and though they warned that the sea would be rough, it was fairly smooth most of the time.  We watched a video about the sperm whales and listened to a briefing to prepare us for the excursion before boarding a bus to the dock. The cruise lasted about 3 hours during which time we saw 2 Humpback Whales, one gargantuan Sperm Whale and an enormous pod of Dusky Dolphins.  The dolphins exuberantly jumped and spun, sometimes so close to the boat that they looked as if they might jump into it.

 

Upon returning to land we drove over to Kean Point to soak in the amazing views and scout NZ fur seals among the rocks.  The Pier Hotel and Restaurant is located near Kean Point so we stopped there for lunch, crayfish chowder for me and a pork belly sandwich for Stu.  After lunch we drove back to town to the offices of South Pacific Whale Watch to sign in for our helicopter ride to see the whales from the air.  We were supposed to also land in the mountains after whale watching, however, the pilot felt that conditions in the mountains were too risky so we had to skip that part of the tour.  They knew exactly when the Sperm Whale had last dove so we waited in the office until it was closer to the time he would surface again and then flew out.  The advantage of a helicopter is that it can get to the spot very quickly when the whale appears and since the water is so crystal clear you get to see the entire length of it.  On the other hand, while it’s cool to see how vast the pod of dolphins is, they’re quite small from that height.  It’s really best to do the boat and helicopter to enjoy both perspectives. We expected it to be a private tour, however there was a young man along with us and since he was single, he sat up front with the pilot while Stu and I sat in the back.  The pilot made a great effort to change sides so we could all see, however, if it had been just us we could have both been on the same side and wouldn’t have missed anything. When we first approached the whale was on his side which was amazing since we could really see the unusual blocky shape of the head, unique to the Sperm Whale. Stu was on the wrong side so he couldn’t take a shot of it, though I believe that he got a brief look at it before it turned over. When the whale dove and raised his fluke there was no time to change sides, so the pilot chose a position that allowed us all to see it through the front window which wasn’t ideal for us in the back.  Dinner was very good again, this time both of us started with cauliflower and had the lamb.

 

BLENHEIM - NELSON – MAPUA - ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK

The morning we left it was pouring rain so if we hadn’t been able to take the helicopter the day before we would have missed the opportunity to reschedule it for this morning.  Our timing was very lucky. Due to the rain overnight the dusting of snow on the mountain tops when we arrived had deepened and was now quite dramatic.  We left before breakfast again and the hamper they left for us was even worse than the day before.  By the time we arrived in Blenheim about an hour and 45 minutes later the skies had cleared.  We timed the drive to arrive at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre when it opened at 9 am.  We got there about 15 minutes early but they let us in anyway.  The docents were friendly and helpful and clearly aviation buffs.  There are 2 large hangars, one for WWI planes and the other devoted to WWII aircraft. The museum is superb, showcasing many WWI planes from director Peter Jackson’s private collection.  The WWI exhibits also have human figures and scenes designed by The Weta Workshop and the dioramas are fabulous!  Stu was engrossed and I enjoyed it almost as much as he.  We particularly liked an extensive exhibit devoted to Manfred Von Richtofen, the Bloody Red Baron fighting ace. In addition to the aircraft there were memorabilia such as Eddie Rickenbacker’s flight suit.  We skipped a classic car exhibit but took a look at the WWII hangar. It wasn’t as much fun as the WWI but still worth perusing, especially since it included a Packard that once belonged to Amelia Earhart.

 

By the time we left the Aviation Centre Cloudy Bay Winery had opened and since it was nearby we stopped in so I could sample their premium wines. The tasting room is beautiful and well worth a visit.  I sampled a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc that knocked my socks off along with Pelorus NV and Pelorus Vintage 2010, very fine Chardonnay blend sparkling wines, particularly the 2010, and Te Koko 2014, an aromatic Sauvignon Blanc aged in French oak. The young American guy who served me was fun and shared lots of interesting information.  Blenheim is located in the renowned Marlborough wine region and merits a longer visit if you want to learn more about NZ wine.

 

It was about another 2 hour drive to Nelson in the Northwest of the South Island and gateway to Abel Tasman National Park.  It was busy around midday on a Thursday with all of the businesses open.  We found a metered parking spot and headed to Urban Oyster Bar & Eatery for lunch. We’d eaten very little for breakfast and were quite hungry by this time. It’s a casual modern eatery decorated in the popular minimalist industrial style with a friendly team and tasty small plates to share. We ordered sashimi, beef sliders, pork buns and “razzle-dazzle” cauliflower, which doesn’t involve jazz hands.  We enjoyed every bite.  I drank a lovely Rimu Grove Pinot Noir with the food.

 

After lunch we drove to our lodge, Te Koi, located on the banks of the Waimea Estuary in Bronte, near the small village of Mapua. As we pulled into the driveway we were enthusiastically greeted by Otis and Louis, the loveable dogs of the delightful owners, Ali and Ian, followed shortly by Ali. This place is a true treat, so stylish and elegant yet still warm and inviting.  Our villa was gorgeous and had everything one could desire.  Even better was the hospitality.  Ali and Ian are wonderful people, so interesting and helpful and kind.  Ali is a seriously talented chef and Ian knows how to select wines, so the dinners we had there were memorable.  Breakfasts were also outstanding with fresh fruit, superior coffee and delicious cooked dishes. There was another couple there the first night but we were the only guests the next two nights, so we almost felt like members of the family.  We had breakfast in the kitchen chatting with Ali and Ian.  They told us that starting the following week they were fully booked for the summer season, so our timing was ideal for a peaceful and relaxing stay.

 

After settling into our lodgings, Ian recommended that we check out Mapua and told us about a fun shop nearby called Rare Creations that has a variety of refined handmade wooden merchandise including furniture, lamps, toys and games.  Mapua is a cute town without much to see, though Rare Creations was well worth a visit. After the day’s long drive we had arranged to have dinner at the lodge.  We shared canapés and conversation with the other couple before heading to the dining room for a scrumptious meal that started with a flaky blue cheese and prosciutto tart, paired with Sauvignon Blanc, followed by a wonderful slow roasted leg of lamb with anchovies, olives and tomatoes served with a refreshing salad with baby carrots and almonds dressed with olive oil, honey, lemon and rosewater.  Neudorf Pinot Noir from a local winery was a good match with the lamb.  With dessert Ian treated us to a very special Himmelsfeld Late Harvest Riesling, one of the last bottles left from a small local producer.

 

In the morning, we arose early and watched some of the many birds found on the property right from our porch, Silvereyes, a Harrier Hawk on the wing, introduced California Quails, Paradise Ducks and flirty Fantails.  We had time to relax after breakfast before the chopper that we’d booked from Reid Helicopters landed on the lawn of Te Koi to take us to Golden Bay for a tour of Farewell Spit.  Ali had prepared and packed a picnic lunch for us and handed it to our pilot, Chris, before we boarded and lifted off.  The views of the landscape were spectacular as we flew over the mountains of Kahurangi National Park, the second largest in New Zealand after Fiordlands.  When Chris indicated that we’d be landing on Mt. Olympus in a spot where a scene from Lord of the Rings was filmed, we were a bit surprised, not only because we didn’t expect a Lord of the Rings tour, but also since we couldn’t see anywhere that we thought a helicopter could land among the rocky crags.  It turns out there are 3 compact landing areas up there.  Once we were down and walking around the site, Chris even showed us on his iPad the scene from LoR where all of characters stood or sat or interacted in The Fellowship of the Ring.  There sat Gandalf, and there Merry and Pippin practiced sword fighting. The whole Fellowship was there, Frodo, Aragorn, Legolas, Gimli, Samwise and Boromir, and we noted the cranny where they hid to evade the crows that Sauron had sent to spy on them. We love the films and though we didn’t want to do a tourist tour of Hobbiton or the various Ring sites, it was still really fun to have lunch in that spot and hear some stories about the production.  Peter Jackson had asked the company’s owner to scout out sites for the movie and described what he was looking for. After almost giving up, Reid was returning from another job and spotted this place. When he told the director, Jackson advised that he’d already filmed that scene in the studio and didn’t want to consider it.  However, Reid convinced him to come take a look and once he saw how perfectly the location matched his vision, Jackson decided to film the scene again.

Chris pulled out a tablecloth and set up the picnic on a flat rock with amazing views.  Ali made us quiche, sandwiches and lemon tarts.  After eating, Chris flew us to a secluded cove in Abel Tasman NP, NZ’s smallest national park.  The scenery was dominated by a large rock offshore with 3 surf-carved arches. We peeked in a cave where seals sometimes lounge around, but there were none there, only sheep on the grassy hills sloping down to the beach. Our next stop was Golden Bay, a popular tourist area, where we joined Paddy, our guide from Farewell Spit Tours, in his 4WD mini-bus to explore the nature reserve.  Farewell Spit is a 34 km long sand spit that extends east from the northernmost point of the South Island and that has been an important wetland and designated bird sanctuary since the 1930’s. You can only visit with an official guide and tours have to be timed in accordance with the tides since the spit loses and gains kilometers of ground with each tide change.  We had come primarily to visit the extensive Gannet colony, but we saw many other birds as well, a sizeable flock of sleek Caspian Terns, Banded Dotterels, Masked Lapwings, Pied Stilts, and extraordinary Bar-Tailed Godwits, who migrate 12,000 km/7,456 mi. each year to Alaska, the longest non-stop flight of any bird.  Their wings are not fully waterproof so they can’t rest at sea during their journey and therefore nearly double their weight before commencing their journey to sustain themselves.  Australasian Gannets, related to boobies, are large, handsome seabirds with white bodies, silvery bills, blue eye-rings, black-tipped wings and buff-yellow feathers atop their heads, who produce fuzzy, white chicks. There were groups of them wheeling around in the air and hundreds on land, many guarding nests.  Like the Albatross, the Gannet fledglings bulk up and then go to sea for years (3 in the case of the Gannets) before returning to the home colony to breed. With lifespans of 25 – 40 years, Gannets are skilled divers and can risk blindness due to the force with which they hit the water when fishing.

 

We visited the Farewell Spit Lighthouse, a metal derrick erected in the 1890’s to replace the deteriorating wooden structure constructed in 1869.  Visitors are not permitted to climb up the lighthouse but there’s a shed nearby with some antique artifacts, including the original Fresnel lens once used in the beacon.  The light was automated in 1984 but we stopped for a cup of tea in the former caretaker’s cottage and viewed the small collection of historical objects within it.  On the way back to Golden Bay we disembarked from the mini-bus to climb a sand dune and take in the views. Whales can sometimes be spotted from the beach but we weren’t that lucky.  Paddy couldn’t have been a better guide.  He’s passionate about the environment and this protected area so it was a very informative and enjoyable tour.  The entire time that we were on the spit, we didn’t see any other visitors, perhaps due to coming just prior to the busy Christmas holiday season.   When we reached Golden Bay Chris was waiting to fly us back to Te Koi.  Paddy and a small group of tourists stopped to watch the chopper take to the air, waving us on our way.  We hugged the shoreline on the return, admiring the breathtaking scenery.  In the cozy living room we told Ian about our day over cheese puffs and cold sparkling Deutz Brut. Dinner was served in a cozy nook for the two of us, starting with a rich tomato soup and a fabulous glass of Richmond Plains Blanc de Noir. The main course was a local fish paired with Te Mania Pinot Noir.  Chocolate eggplant tart with raspberry ice cream finished the meal.

 

In the morning we consulted with Ian and Ali over breakfast about our plans for the day.  We decided to start off with a hike in Abel Tasman NP, so we drove to Marahau, where you can begin a multi-day trek in the park if you want to camp overnight.  We hiked for a few miles on an easy coastal trail with magnificent views before retracing our steps back to the car park. We crossed the estuary via low wooden bridges, passed though forests and along sandy coves, and watched kayakers assembling for a ride along the shore. The weather was gorgeous, augmenting the pleasure of the hike.  From there we drove inland to Upper Moutere, a quaint rural town with an old post office, an inn established in 1850 and a community of artists.  Katie Gold creates colorful and fantastical clay bowls and towers. Further from the town center we visited Michael McMillan Sculptures which feature bronze human figures, wood objects made from barrels and bird nests atop tall structures.  There are wineries in the area as well and Ian had reserved a table for us at Moutere Hills Winery.  We sat outdoors on a patio with a view towards the vineyards.  Lunch was mediocre but I enjoyed sampling their wines and the setting was lovely. 

 

We had time to return to Te Koi to freshen up before heading into Nelson for dinner.  It was our last evening and on Ian’s recommendation we stopped at the WOW museum (World of Wearable Art) which also has a classic car collection.  The cars were pretty good but WOW is a perfect description of the clothes!  The extravagant garments were creative, spectacular and very cleverly displayed, including videos of models wearing them.  Ian had also recommended some art galleries and shops in Nelson, but unfortunately businesses close really early on Saturday, so by the time we got to Nelson all of the stores and art galleries were closed.  We strolled around town and peeked in the windows of some of the art galleries, had a look at some street art, and also listened to part of a Christmas concert in the graceless cathedral, which is perched atop a green garden near the most charismatic section of town, Trafalgar Street.  A block of Trafalgar is closed to vehicles and there were musicians and performers entertaining the people congregated there and enjoying the outdoor cafés.  Attractive multicolored buildings built around the turn of the 20th C line this section.  We had dinner in one of these handsome establishments at a well-regarded restaurant named Hopgood’s.  It was a wonderful meal and we loved the atmosphere, service, food and wine.  Since we only had one dinner in town, we’re glad that we picked this restaurant. 

                 

WELLINGTON          

We had the choice of a ferry or flight to Wellington and opted to fly since it was only about a half hour in the air. We enjoyed Wellington a great deal.  We picked up a rental car at the airport and drove to our hotel, the QT Wellington, located across the road from the harbor and the Te Papa Museum, which we had come expressly to see.  QT was a mixed bag.  Known as an art hotel, the art in the public spaces truly is stunning!  I couldn’t believe that they have a Damien Hirst just casually displayed on a table in the reception area.  Service was variable; the young German valet who parked our car was delightful, though the front desk team was polite though not particularly welcoming or helpful.  Our room wasn’t ready yet, so we checked our bags and headed out to find some lunch. 

 

The day was bright and sunny so we wandered along the harbor and picked up juicy, tasty, and messy, burgers at a food truck run by a cheerful, efficient female team.  We found a grassy spot with a water view to sit and enjoy them along with the people watching.  There were lots of stalls selling food and merchandise and it seemed as if all of Wellington was outside enjoying the weather.  We got a good laugh at a long mural on a garage adjacent to our hotel that depicts dozens of goofy sharks in fanciful colors.  Next door a weighty golden hippo with its mouth wide open stands on a platform over a doorway of the hotel identifying their fine dining restaurant, Hippopotamus. Colorful paintings on the hotel’s exterior further emphasized the art hotel theme.  In the afternoon I had set up a private tour of Weta Workshop, the creative special effects and props business that worked on Lord of the Rings, as well as other movies such as Avatar, TV shows, and museum exhibits such as the ones at the aviation museum in Blenheim and the Gallipoli exhibit at Te Papa.  We returned to the hotel in hopes of checking in and leaving our backpacks in our room, but it still wasn’t ready.  The workshop was about a half hour drive away in another section of town, so we couldn’t wait too long and had to head over.

 

I had gone back and forth about taking this tour, and which day to do it, but fortunately decided to go for it.  It was so much fun!  Our guide, Jen, is a sculptor who works on various projects. The creative team are all contractors who are assigned to different projects and there can be up to 300 at any given time.  They’ll work on all aspects of the film, costumes, props, special effects, makeup, post-production and CGI. The private tour covers most of the same ground as the public tours, however it includes some experiences that are not included, plus you’re the only ones in the areas while you’re visiting them. We learned so much. When we visited the offices we learned that the company is named after a family of insects that resemble very large crickets and are one of the largest insect species in the world. In the reception area of the office is a huge metal statue of a Weta.  We were also admitted to the boardroom, which is crammed with awards, memorabilia and collectibles from the various projects, especially Lord of the Rings.  We even got to hold one of the 5 Oscar statuettes bestowed upon Weta Workshop. They are the only Oscars without a name on them. The founder, Richard Taylor (along with Peter Jackson, Tania Rodger and Jamie Selkirk), wanted them to be inscribed to the Weta Workshop since it was a group effort, and was advised that they had to have a person’s name, so he decided not to add any names at all.  The Oscar is bigger and heavier than we imagined.  You don’t have to be a LoR fan to enjoy this, just someone who appreciates movies and special effects.  We knew it was labor intensive work but had no idea just how much effort and skill it involves.  For example, we learned that when human hair is needed on a figure, whether on head, face arms or other, each strand of hair has to be added individually to make it look natural.  It takes weeks of effort.  We visited the warehouse where the miniatures for the TV series Thunderbirds Are Go are created and stored, and Jen told us how they use ordinary objects, such as spools or orange squeezers, to simulate larger items.  It was very cool to see.  Unfortunately we couldn’t take photos of most of the items during the tour since there are copyright restrictions, though some are allowed.  After about 2-1/2 hours the tour ended in the Weta Cave, which is just a shop where you can buy action figures and other merchandise. Throughout the workshop and in the cave you encounter giant hulking models of some scary creatures, such as the terrifying Uruk-hai and craven Gollum, as well as the more heroic characters.

 

When we got back to the hotel our room was finally ready.  We had booked a harbor view and it was pretty good though partially blocked by the other section of the hotel.  A couple of floors higher would have been better, but we waited a long time for the room so we weren’t going to ask for a change.  The hotel location was ideal, the art divine and it was comfortable enough, so we’re glad we stayed there despite any drawbacks.  We had enough time to unpack and get ready for dinner at Logan Brown, a popular restaurant about a 20 minute walk away. Occupying a former bank, instead of being grand and soaring, we found the room design to be oddly sequestered and unappealing.  Service seemed a bit amateurish for a restaurant with this reputation.  We decided to have the tasting menu so we could try the chef’s signature dishes and greatly enjoyed the food and wine.

 

Breakfast in the hotel’s Hippopotamus restaurant was well above average with a well-stocked buffet and cooked dishes to order if you want.  It’s on a high floor with good views of the harbor and we had comfy seats by the window to enjoy them.  We had arranged a private tour of the Maori collection at the Te Papa, NZ’s national museum, which commenced before the museum opened to the public.  The building is sleek and modern with design elements that evoke Maori structures.   Inside we were greeted by Angela, a woman with Maori and European lineage.  She pointed out the Waharoa in the lobby, an impressive tall gate elaborately carved around 1906 from Totara wood and embellished with paua shell, a traditional Maori entryway to a village, or pa.  We walked outside into the museum garden where she talked about the harakeke (flax) plant and how the Maori weave it into baskets, containers and mats. To the Maori, harakeke symbolizes the family and the cycle of life, new leaves in the center representing the child and larger leaves on the outside signifying parents and older relatives. Once back inside Angela related the history of the Maori, the arrival of Europeans to Aotearoa (the native name for New Zealand, which translates to the land of the long white cloud), and the momentous Treaty of Waitangi.  She showed us native objects on public display, describing their usage and significance, including the masterfully carved Te Hau ki Turanga, a chief’s house built in the 1840’s for the Rongowhakaata people of the Gisborne region. Only a small number of the more than 30,000 Maori taonga (cultural treasures) housed in the museum are on public display, so Angela led us into the museum’s vast storerooms where we met a young Maori docent who showed us some of these treasures.  There were drawers full of painstakingly woven capes incorporating bird feathers of various species including Kiwi.  She confided that a secret feather was woven into the cloak that identified the weaver and showed us some examples. Diamond patterns are common and triangles can represent mountains or teeth.  The recurring staircase pattern symbolizes learning, or moving to the next stage of development. Symbols in carvings, fabrics and tattoos represent stories about culture, history, beliefs and ancestry. We cringed when she described how tattoos were created, actually a form of scarification called Ta Moko, which involved tapping an ink-dipped blade into the skin with a mallet.  Her grandmother told her it was more painful than childbirth, yet while most Maori now use modern, less painful, tattooing methods, there are some who still do it the traditional way.

 

Red is a sacred color to the Maori so cloaks using the orangey-red feathers of the Kaka were prized.  Dogs were kept only by high status individuals and some rare cloaks were fashioned from dog skin. There were also pake, common every-day cloaks made from leaves that protected the wearers from the elements and also provided camouflage. We saw a 16-1/2 m/54 ft. long waka (canoe) ornamented with white albatross and hawk feathers and capacious enough for 70 warriors.  There were fearsome weapons, such as spears, clubs and axes, as well as unique musical instruments.  Our guide skillfully played some of the instruments for us including a nose flute that she blew through her nostrils.  We also admired some lovely pounamu (jade) jewelry and carvings.  We covered only a fraction of the collection and the artifacts were exquisite, helping us to understand more about Maori history and culture as we had hoped.  Hospitality is very important in the culture, so we ended our tour sharing cookies and tea with Angela in a quiet conference room. Although our travel agent had arranged for this tour, you can join a group tour or book a private tour via the Te Papa website.

 

After the tour we went to see an exhibit commemorating those who fell in the ill-fated 10 month WWI battle at Gallipoli in Turkey where battalions of Allied soldiers, including thousands of New Zealanders and Australians, lost their lives in a disastrous military campaign.  For another dramatic retelling of this historic event, see Peter Weir’s heartbreaking film from 1981. The exhibit focuses on the stories of 8 New Zealand individuals who perished in the conflict, including a doctor and nurse, relating their histories and including letters they’d written and personal artifacts, so it was exceedingly eloquent and moving.  Monumental models of these people, created with hyper-realistic detail 2.4x larger than life, were crafted by the artists at the Weta Workshop.  The profound emotional impact of seeing them represented this way is inestimable. We’re glad that we saw this exhibit after visiting Weta since we better appreciated the expertise that went into creating these astounding figures. 

 

We wandered around the blocks near our hotel looking for a place for lunch. On Monday many restaurants were closed, however, we liked the chill looks of a casual café called Joe’s Garage and decided to give it a try. It turned out to be a lucky choice.  We both ordered a sandwich called Teddy Best, which was composed of tender and juicy free range chicken breast garnished with caramelized onions, tomato, arugula and whole grain mustard aioli on an excellent toasted ciabatta and we shared a side order of perfectly ripe avocado.  They were hawking a special on a NZ rosé wine so I tried and liked it.

 

We needed to work off some of the lunch, and it was a fine day, so we walked over to the Wellington Art Gallery, where admission is free. There were 2 special exhibits, neither of which captured our imaginations.  We continued exploring, heading back towards the harbor, and found several interesting outdoor sculptures on wooden bridges and walkways.  We also came across outdoor lawns with beanbag seating where people lounged in the sun near sidewalk cafés bustling with people eating and drinking.  We had a superb dinner at Hippopotamus in the hotel.  We were granted a fabulous table by the window and service was flawless and engaging.  We ordered the 6 course degustation menu and I had the wine pairing.  Although we had many excellent dining experiences during the trip, this was our finest dinner in New Zealand.

 

LAKE TAUPO

It takes just under 5 hours to drive from Wellington to Taupo, but we broke it up with stops along the way.  Our first break was about 50 minutes away at the Southward Car Museum, named for Sir Len Southward, who founded the 3 level museum to showcase his collection of exotic and vintage cars and motorcycles.  We especially liked the SS100, the precursor to Jaguar, an enchanting 1895 Benz Velo, Marlene Dietrich’s 1934 Cadillac Town Cabriolet and gangster Mickey Cohen’s armored 1950 Cadillac.  On the bottom level there are some oddities, such as the weird vehicle that featured in Woody Allen’s film Sleeper.  Around lunch time we found ourselves near the town of Taihape and had lunch at a cute place called Le Café Téléphonique with good, fresh food and very nice people. 

We still had about a 2 hour drive to reach Acacia Cliffs Lodge. The location is unbeatable in a peaceful hillside community a short drive from Taupo town with stunning views of Lake Taupo and the mountains.  I just wish we’d had the same clear sunny weather there that we had everywhere else. The lake views from the lodge were fabulous as is, but would have been jaw-dropping if the mountains had been more clearly visible.  We were greeted by Linda, who owns the lodge with her husband, Rick, and she showed us around the stylish common areas and then took us to our equally tasteful room, which included a balcony overlooking the lodge property and the lake.  Linda and Rick are skilled hosts, avid travelers, and very helpful.  Rick also makes delicious breakfasts, you can tell that he’s been a professional chef. 

After unpacking we drove to Taupo to board a yacht from Chris Jolly Outdoor tours for a private lake cruise to see the Mine Bay Maori Rock Carvings, which can only be accessed by boat or kayak. It was a somewhat cloudy evening but the boat ride was enjoyable.  The principal rock carving is a 14 m/46 ft. high rendering of master carver Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell’s ancient ancestor, Ngātoroirangi.  His grandmother had asked him to carve his likeness in a Totara tree to signify their family’s connection to the land, but when he couldn’t find any Totaras he discovered a flat rock face in a secluded alcove on the lake.  He envisioned the face there and chose to create the carving in stone. He and a team of four artists, Jono Randell, Te Miringa Hohais, Dave Hegglun and Steve Myhre, took 4 years to sculpt the magnificent portrait, finishing in 1980. Ngātoroirangi, a high priest, guided the Tuwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to Taupo by canoe over 1000 years ago.  His facial tattoos and top knot are symbolic, representing his connection to the spiritual world, his vision and intuition, his rank and his ability to communicate with Matua Kore, the chief Maori god.  The team also carved several smaller figures on the rocks surrounding the portrait which represent tapuna (ancestors) and kaitiaki, (guardians) that are important to the local Maori people, such as Horomatangi, the Maori water dragon said to live in the lake, a mermaid and the south wind.  

As we continued our cruise around the lake, the captain informed us that Lake Taupo, formed in the caldera of the Taupo Volcano, covers about 616 square km/238 square miles, and was created by volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. As you tour the lake you can clearly see the sides of the crater.  We pulled up alongside a huge lava plug, caused when magma hardens in the vent of an active volcano, to marvel at the geology.  Rainbow trout are plentiful in the lake and we even caught one, but we released it since we were headed off to dinner in town. 

We had time before our dinner reservation so we wandered around Taupo town.  All of the stores were closed, but we discovered a modest collection of street art featuring several interesting pieces, some hidden away in back alleys.  On the trail around the lake we also found a stunning 9 m/29 ft. high red and black wooden Waharoa carved by Delani Brown, a local master carver, as the entryway to the War Memorial Cenotaph that is placed in front of the Great Lake Center, a cultural venue with a theater, exhibition hall and conference facilities. The carvings on the portal are symbolic and relate a story about geothermal energy in the Taupo region. We were there 2 weeks before Christmas and the trunk of a large tree in the middle of a roundabout was festively covered in colorful lights.   We had dinner at an intimate restaurant named The Bistro and it was fabulous!  Simple but fresh and very well prepared dishes, particularly the vegetables.  I had a superb trevally from Hawkes Bay that was perfectly cooked and served atop a bed of highly flavorful veggies.  We didn’t try a lot of places, but I suspect that this may be the best restaurant in town. 

The highlight of our time in Taupo, and one of the major highlights of our whole trip, was the Powhiri, a Maori ritual welcoming ceremony that we attended the following day. Pow means darkness and Hiri signifies a transition from dark into light. You can attend a tourist Powhiri in various places in New Zealand, but this was a more intimate and powerful experience for just the two of us.  We drove for about 45 minutes to Mt. Titiraupenga, which is a sacred place for the Maori, to a forested area owned by the local tribes.  We pulled our car over to the side of the road and were met by John and Mariata, a very warm and wonderful couple, who taught us a little bit about Maori customs, including the hongi, the traditional greeting consisting of touching foreheads and noses and breathing each other’s breaths. This custom originated in a legend about how the gods breathed life into the first woman whom they created from clay.  Performing the hongi is a meaningful act that cements your relationship, not like a casual handshake or peck on the cheek.  It’s an affecting way to greet people that invites intimacy.  John and Mariata guided us into the woods, stopping to show us a giant Totora tree, about 1800 years old, that they call grandmother. Farther on we came upon an open wooden pavilion with tables and benches and were advised that we’d have lunch there later.

John started leading Stu into the woods via a narrow path and I followed with Mariata. We heard the sound of shell horns and female voices and suddenly a warrior in a feather and leaf cloak and headdress appeared in the path confronting Stu with a fierce expression while swinging a dangerous looking spear.  I had read a little about the welcoming ceremony so I wasn’t too surprised, but I hadn’t told Stu anything so he could experience the initial contact with the warrior without preconceptions. There were still plenty of surprises for both of us.  The warrior, whom we later learned is named Benoit, placed a branch on the ground between them, and John advised Stu to pick up the branch while maintaining eye contact. This ritual is repeated a couple of times and then it was Stu’s turn to offer a branch.  This is meant to establish trust and once the warrior believes that the visitors are no threat he leads them to a clearing where the Chief and the rest of the clan are gathered. Here we encountered the Chief, who happened to be Delani Brown, of Ngati Tuwharetoa/Raukawa descent and the creator of the marvelous Waharoa in town. Besides the men there were 2 women, two girls and a year-old baby, all members of an extended family. We were invited to sit on logs while Delani gave a welcoming speech, after which one of the women sang a beautiful song to show support and love for him. Then Stu delivered a speech and I had to sing.  I had no idea what to sing and came up with “You are my Sunshine”, which is easy to sing and shows love.  Our hosts got a kick out of it and joined me in song.    Next we clambered into a spacious hollow at the base of a gigantic tree to talk about the Maori culture and customs and how they maintain traditions in a modern world.  When lunch was ready, we all walked out of the forest to the pavilion where food and drink had been laid out.  Sharing a meal is very important to the Maori, as it is in many cultures.  The food wasn’t anything exotic, sandwiches and salads that you’d normally find at a picnic, but very satisfying. 

We learned that Maori identify strongly with their Polynesian lineage and that most Polynesians consider themselves members of a larger community even though they may live on islands separated by thousands of miles and different customs.  Stu and I had visited Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in February and they were very interested in knowing more about that culture.  We discussed that, as well as other travels, over lunch and Stu showed them some of the photos he carries on his phone.  We also asked Delani about his carving and he told us how he learns about the recipients in order to imbue personal meaning into the sculpture, just as Maori personal and tribal history, myths and symbols are reflected in the carvings they create for themselves.  He related that he was an aimless youth until elders of the tribe whisked him away for a couple of years to learn how to carve.  There he connected with his vocation, the art of Whakairo, as well as more deeply with his ancestry and spirituality.  After lunch Delani took out a guitar and the family sang for us. They all have excellent voices though the voice of the woman with the baby was exquisite.  I regret not having noted down everyone’s name and their relationships to each other, and my memory is just not as sharp as it once was. The girls demonstrated their skill with poi awe, balls attached to cords that they twirl around rhythmically by twisting their wrists, bouncing them off their hands and bodies. I got to try it and can attest that it takes skill and practice to do what they can do. We finished our time together with the hongi and they told us that we’re now one with the Tangata Whenua (people of the earth).  It’s very special when you can connect with people on different levels, intellectually as well as emotionally, and this was a transporting experience.  John and Mariata escorted us back to our car for a final farewell hongi.

Back at the lodge we had time to relax on our balcony before joining the other guests for canapés and wine.  We enjoyed the company of a charming older French couple, though an American couple with their adult daughter and son-in-law weren’t quite as congenial. We dined at The Brantry, and though it’s a well rated restaurant, we were disappointed in the quality of the meal, so we wouldn’t personally recommend that one. 

WAIHEKE ISLAND

We arose fairly early for our last long drive of the trip, about 5 hours to Auckland, fortified by delectable omelets courtesy of Rick. On the way we detoured slightly for a guided tour of Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari, a wildlife preserve.  We arrived early since we allowed time to get lost, but didn’t, and our guide, Craig, was nice enough to start the tour right away.  The sanctuary is extensive with 2 main habitat areas, forest and wetlands, and well-maintained trails throughout. We explored the forest section. Craig was knowledgeable and very interesting, however we were disappointed to see so few birds, it was more about botany, as well as providing useful information about continuing and projected conservation projects.  New Zealand aims to be predator free by 2050, an ambitious goal.  We did see Weta, which are intriguing insects, though they were a smaller species, not the Giant Weta. We also were treated to a close look at a Kaka, which we’d seen only at a distance on Ulva Island and in a pen in Te Anau.  Takahe can be found in the wetlands area, however, we had seen Takahe in Te Anau; and so even though we were free to wander after the tour, we decided to hit the road since we had a long journey ahead to Waiheke. If you don’t get down to Stewart Island or Otago Peninsula it might be worthwhile visiting this sanctuary, but it felt a bit anti-climactic to us, and we could just as easily have skipped it.  We had a recommendation for a café in Hamilton for a lunch break, but neither of us felt like eating, so we continued on to Auckland.  We hit traffic congestion about an hour outside of the city that slowed us down.  We dropped the rental car at an agency office in town and grabbed a cab to the ferry terminal. It was a tiring drive so we were happy to relax and enjoy the 35 minute Fullers Ferry ride over to Waiheke Island with the scenic views of Auckland, the harbor and Waiheke.

 

Located in the Hauraki (North Wind) Gulf, and only 20 km/12 mi. long, Waiheke was originally named Te-Motu-Arai-Roa by the Maori (the Long Sheltering Island), though the current name derives from Motu-Wai-Heke (Island of Trickling Water) which references an Onetangi freshwater stream used to supply water to visiting sailors.  Between the 1960’s – 80’s it was a hippy enclave and a favorite of creatives, and though it has morphed into an upscale domain of wineries (26 or more), mansions and multimillionaires, the artistic community remains vibrant. Visiting wineries is a popular day trip activity from Auckland and it’s a romantic destination for weddings and special events. During the short wait to board the ferry I had called our hotel, The Boatshed, to let them know which boat we’d arrive on and they sent a complimentary taxi to pick us up at the ferry terminal.  The common areas of The Boatshed are light, airy and stylish with nautical themed décor and a patio overlooking the dazzling expanse of Little Oneroa Bay. The owner has a small dog but he was very low energy and not especially sociable.  Our room wasn’t ready yet so we took a seat where we could soak in the view and a gracious young woman kindly brought us a plate of fresh fruit while we waited.  We were escorted to our room a while later and spent the rest of the afternoon settling in and acquainting ourselves with the accommodations.  We had arranged to have dinner at The Boatshed that evening and met the delightful chef, Reggie, who hails from São Paulo, Brazil.  He’s a talented cook and we enjoyed the food, though the pacing of the meal was far too slow.

 

The following morning after breakfast, Steve from Ananda Tours picked us up for a customized tour of the island. Steve, was terrific, he knew a lot about the island and was a fascinating person to chat with.  First he drove us to Te Huruhi Bay in Blackpool, which is one that we had a distant view of from our terrace, where we spied Bar-tailed Godwits and Caspian Terns.  At the Western end of the bay is a city council reserve where the Piritahi Marae, a Maori meeting house, is located and serves as an important community center.  Piritahi means “together as one”.  From there we drove up Church Bay Road for an expansive view of olive groves, vineyards and the bay.  The name of the bay derives from a Maori Anglican church built in the area in 1833 which is no longer standing.  We continued on this road to the majestic home and studio of artist Gabriella Lewenz. We browsed the collection of abstract paintings in her studio, then continued on.  We had time before our next stop, so Steve took us into Oneroa, the main commercial town on the island, to peek in the Waiheke Community Art Gallery, where a new show featuring different artists was being set up for an opening that evening.  We were allowed to have a look around and saw several interesting pieces.  From there we headed to the studio of wood sculptor, John Freeman.  Freeman collects ancient Kauri roots, many of them found preserved in swamps, to create marvelous works of art.  Some sculptures evoke native animal shapes, such as the Kiwi, and some are informed by Maori motifs, while others are just modern interpretations that flow from the particular shape and grain of the wood.  He’s an affable artist, willing to talk about his work and process, and we saw many finished pieces as well as some in progress.  The pieces are expensive but deservedly so given the artistry.

We had hoped to visit the Connells Bay Sculpture Park, which is on private property and requires advance reservations, but were advised that it wouldn’t be accessible during our stay, so Ananda Tours had recommended Sacred Blessings Garden instead, a botanical garden with monumental bronze sculptures by native New Zealander Paul Dibble.  The docent who showed us around was very invested in the garden and knowledgeable about the various flowers, trees, shrubs, fruit and vegetables in it.  They produce eggplants, peppers, garlic, potatoes, kohlrabi, beets, pumpkins and chard, and it’s the first time we saw how artichokes grow, enlivened by pretty purple flowers. Visiting at the end of spring there was a profusion of blooms, dahlias, irises, lilies, orchids and over 500 roses.  One section was designed like a Japanese garden and featured a smoothly gliding swing to relax in.  We took a break in a lovely building for tea and baked delights. They had a variety of delicate sets of china and we got to choose the pattern we preferred.  It was a pleasant tour, though we didn’t think it was a good substitute for Connells Bay based on what we had read about it. 

Although we’ve toured many wineries to learn how wine is made, we had never learned about olive oil production, so at Rangihoua Olive Estate we had an opportunity to do that as well as sample their products.  Stonyridge Vineyard decided to diversify about 40 years ago and planted about 4,500 olive trees with 9 varieties of olives, along with lemon, orange and passionfruit trees.  As you might expect, in New Zealand the trees flower in October (spring) and the olives are harvested around April/May (fall).  We learned that while there are hundreds of species of olives, all varieties start out green and darken as they ripen, so the color of the olive is determined by how much time it spends on the tree, not on the type of olive.  Making olive oil is a fairly straightforward process. An olive tree in its prime can produce about 118 kg/260 lbs. of olives and a mature tree about 60 kg/132 lbs.  Olives are raked off the branches and must be processed within 24 hours.  They’re washed and cleaned to remove stems, twigs, leaves and other debris, and then crushed into a paste, including the pits, for about 45 minutes. The paste is mixed, and then the oil is separated from the solid matter (extracted) by centrifuge. The pulp doesn’t go to waste, here it is used to feed cows. Cold extraction (or cold press if done by mechanical press) means that no heat is added during extraction. Adding heat increases the yield of oil, but diminishes the quality by suppressing the delicate flavors and aromas.  After extraction the oil is cloudy with sediment, so it spends a month in barrels. The sediment settles and the oil is separated again and bottled. Some producers might simply filter the oil at this stage rather than storing it in barrels.  The quality of the oil is unrelated to the color of the olives used to make it, however, the color does impact the flavor profile, with green, unripe olives expressing more bitterness. To be true Extra Virgin Olive Oil it must only be cold extracted/pressed, it must be bottled in dark glass or tin cans since light and heat can degrade the oil, it must be younger than 2 years old, and it must comply with regulations stipulating that free acidity (oleic acid) is not more than .8 grams per 100 grams. We sampled 3 different Rangihoua EVOOs, Waiheke Blend – a unique cross cultural mix of Ascalano (Italian), Verdale (French) and Mission (California) – which was the lightest oil, herbaceous and fruity, Frantoio Blend, a blend of Italian olives – Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino and Morialo – that was creamy and buttery, and Picual – a single varietal oil made from the Spanish Picual olive - that was sharp and bitter.  We preferred the Tuscan style Frantoio blend.

Our favorite meal on Waiheke was at the remarkable winery where we had lunch, Tantalus Estate, paradoxically named given the bounty of food and wine available there, for the Greek mythological king and son of Zeus who was tortured for eternity by the gods for trying to serve his son to them during a banquet. He was condemned to stand in a pool of water in Hades which receded whenever he stooped down to drink with a tree overhead that dangled tempting fruit just out of his reach. We invited Steve to join us, and his company and conversation over lunch was a highlight of the tour.  He’s a musician with a local band, moonlighting as a tour guide, so he and Stu bonded over guitars and music. The food was exceptional and I got to sample their marvelous 2017 Cachette Chardonnay and 2014 Evoque, a Right Bank Bordeaux style blend.

We always wanted to meet an apiarist, so we were thrilled to visit Honey House & Café, and to meet its appealing owner, Gavin, and some of his equally alluring honeybees.  He led us to the hives, and without protective gear, he introduced a moderate amount of smoke to calm the bees and then lifted 2 trays of them from the hive. Although some flew around us, bees and humans remained calm, so we didn’t feel threatened. Gavin told us about the medicinal properties of honey produced from the nectar of the indigenous Manuka tree, which has antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities.  We sampled some of the delicious honeys and since olives are also grown on the estate, tasted some of their herb flavored olive oils as well. Gavin told us what types of food paired well with the different honeys and oils.  They have an attractive small café with in- and outdoor seating but we didn’t check out the menu. From there we drove up to Trig Hill, the highest lookout point on the west side of the island with breathtaking panoramic views of the landscape, various bays, such as Onetangi, as well as  Motutapu (Sacred Island) and Rangitoto (Bloody Sky) Islands.  Motutapu, 180 million years old, is New Zealand’s oldest island, settled by the first arriving Polynesians, and home to early Maori settlements. Rangitoto, in contrast, was formed by a volcanic eruption only 600 years ago. Declared predator-free, Motutapu is a conservation area where endangered species, such as the Takahe, have been reintroduced to thrive. We were supposed to learn about Maori flax weaving on the tour, but unfortunately didn’t get around to it.  After the Powhiri and Te Papa we were even more interested in seeing this, so we were a little disappointed that we didn’t do it. 

That evening we had dinner at Mudbrick Restaurant and Vineyard. The estate is attractive and from our table next to the window we had a view of the gulf and the Auckland skyline in the distance.  The dining room is capacious, accommodating large groups, so it’s not as quiet or intimate as we had expected.  We had a personable server, but service was slow with some timing issues.  We ordered the 7 course tasting menu, which was generally good, though not as satisfying as we had anticipated based on Mudbrick’s reputation.  That evening there was a riotous thunderstorm, and from our privileged vantage point the dramatic lightning display was like watching fireworks.  Undoubtedly because of the storm, it took a really long time to get a taxi back to Boatshed.

On our last day in NZ, the skies were clearing, so after a scrumptious breakfast of short rib hash we walked to Oneroa. On the way we spotted a resplendent Sacred Kingfisher (Kotare in Maori) perched on a telephone wire.  Oneroa is a picturesque village with art galleries, some whimsical sculptures on the sidewalks, boutique shops, restaurants and grocery stores. We browsed in the stores and galleries but it doesn’t take long to cover the town.  We returned to Boatshed to check out and planned to leave our bags and continue exploring the island.  The owner suggested that we hire a taxi to take us to Stonyridge Winery then arranged for the driver to come back for our bags, pick us up from there and take us to the heliport for our departure flight.  Like many of the island residents, our driver wore many hats besides cab driver, and recommended that after our wine tasting at Stonyridge, we walk over to nearby Te Motu Vineyard and we could meet him there. He helpfully pointed out the dirt path that winds through the vineyards. 

We were seated on a comfortable sofa at Stonyridge and joined a couple from Norway for a premium wine tasting. We tried the Pilgrim 2017, a blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier and Grenache that was ok, followed by the Airfield 2017, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot blend that was smooth and easy to drink. But I’d come especially for their flagship red, Larose, and was served the 2014, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and smidgens of Cabernet Franc and Carmenere.  While it will improve with more aging, it was already excellent and worthy of its reputation.

Te Motu is a more casual place with an exceedingly welcoming and genial team.  Their restaurant is reputed to be excellent but we didn’t have time for lunch. We sat at a table in the garden and I enjoyed a leisurely tasting of their wonderful wines, starting with the 2018 The Shed Rosé, 100% Merlot and 100% refreshing and delicious. Next was the 2016 Dunleavy “The Grafter” Syrah, a pleasing Rhone style red, followed by a lovely 2015 Dunleavy “The Strip” Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend that spent 16 months in oak barrels. These wines acknowledge the Dunleavy family that founded the winery.  The next two pours were exceptional, first the 2009 Te Motu, an elegant Cabernet predominant blend hand harvested from low-yielding vines.  The star of the tasting was the 2012 Te Motu, composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. I was hard pressed to decide whether I preferred this or the Stonyridge Larose. 

On Waiheke, you’d be better off renting a vehicle and touring on your own, but we’d had enough of driving so it was a nice break for us.  I also would have chosen a different place to stay, perhaps Delamore Lodge.  Our taxi driver drove us to the helipad and we flew to the airport courtesy of Helicopter Me, enjoying spectacular views during the 15 minute ride.  It was a perfect way to end an amazing trip!

TRAVEL AGENCY & TOUR COMPANIES

AHIPARA – arranged our itinerary, booked flights, car rentals, hotels, tours. Excellent service, very highly recommended. Most of the trip you could plan and book yourself if you don’t want to use a travel agency. https://www.ahipara.com/

TRIPS & TRAMPS – https://tripsandtramps.com/

BEAKS & FEATHERS – https://www.beaksandfeathers.co.nz/

ELM WILDLIFE TOURS – WILD COAST EXPLORER TOUR https://www.elmwildlifetours.co.nz/

WHALE WATCH KAIKOURA – https://www.whalewatch.co.nz/

SOUTH PACIFIC WHALE WATCH – https://www.southpacificwhales.co.nz/

REID HELICOPTERS NELSON – https://www.helicoptersnelson.co.nz/

FAREWELL SPIT TOURS – https://www.farewellspit.com/

WETA WORKSHOP – https://www.wetaworkshop.com/visit-us/workshop-tours/

TAONGA MÄORI TOUR – TE PAPA MUSEUM – https://www.tepapa.govt.nz/visit/guided-tours

CHRIS JOLLY OUTDOORS – https://chrisjolly.co.nz/

ANANDA TOURS – https://www.ananda.co.nz/

HELICOPTER ME - https://www.helicopterme.co.nz/

HOTELS

THE LANGHAM HUNTINGTON – Pasadena www.langhamhotels.com

We typically stay at the Langham because it’s the nicest hotel near to where Kyrsten and Scot live and since we spend most of our time at their house, it’s very convenient.  The rooms are comfortable and elegant with all of the amenities you may need, the grounds are lovely and the breakfast in their club lounge is fabulous, not to mention the midday and evening drinks and snacks.  Service is usually excellent. They have a terrific gym as well as a fancy spa (which I haven’t tried).  It’s a costly hotel but it offers a high quality experience.

 

HILTON AUCKLAND, PRINCES WHARF – http://www.hilton.co.nz/

The Hilton was a nice hotel for an overnight stay and the location was ideal, right on the harbor, we were able to walk to the things we wanted to see/do.  If we were staying longer we would have selected a more charismatic property, but this met our needs. Our room was small but well planned and we had a little balcony with a view of the harbor and city.

 

PROSPECT LODGE – TE ANAU http://www.prospectlodge.co.nz

We spent 2 peaceful nights at Prospect Lodge and couldn’t have been more pleased. It’s a lovely, intimate B&B with only 2 guest rooms. Our room was an end unit with floor to ceiling windows on 2 sides affording us a magnificent panorama of the lake, mountains and Te Anau town, as well as the beautiful garden on the lodge grounds. The décor is stylish and elegant in the guest and shared spaces. We slept well in the well-dressed bed and also had comfy chairs in the room as well as a table and chairs on the patio to relax in. The shower was outstanding and the robes were so soft and plush it felt like wearing a teddy bear.

Joan and Ross are warm and welcoming hosts and we had the pleasure of meeting their lovely grown-up daughter Rebecca also. We enjoyed chatting with the family over drinks and canapés before dinner. Breakfasts were farm fresh and delicious enhanced all the more by the gobsmacking view from the dining table. It’s a very quick and easy drive into Te Anau, but so much nicer to enjoy this tranquil space a short distance away than staying in town.

 

CHURCH HILL BOUTIQUE LODGE – STEWART ISLAND http://www.churchhill.co.nz/

Stu and I greatly enjoyed our time on Stewart Island and a large part of that pleasure was due to the 3 nights we spent at Church Hill. It far exceeded our expectations!  Located on a hill overlooking Oban town and harbor, the views are beautiful and it’s an easy walk to town. There are only 3 rooms and they’re in separate units, so it’s very peaceful and quiet. We stayed in Kamahi, named for a native tree. Everything was spotlessly clean and in good condition. The décor is elegant and modern and loaded with quality amenities such as a Sony Bluetooth speaker, DVD/Blu-Ray player, Nespresso machine, a very good hairdryer, velvety robes, luxurious soap and shampoo, a small safe for valuables, and even hot water bottles, though we were warm and cozy during the chilly nights and didn’t need them. The King bed is spacious and comfortable and even though it’s the type that can be separated into twins, the separation cannot be detected. We slept exceedingly well. There’s ample space in the closet and drawers for unpacking and plenty of room in the bathroom for personal toiletries. The shower was excellent. We had a lovely view of the harbor and nearby trees that attracted beautiful birds to entertain us while relaxing in the room. Delicious house baked treats were left in the room each day and high quality chocolates each evening. Since we pack light, we liked that there’s a fully equipped laundry room available to guests that we could use at times that were most convenient for us rather than having to turn in items in the morning to be returned in the evening as at most places. Deanne’s skills as a chef are deservedly lauded, the food is not only scrumptious but artistically presented. This is a restaurant that would stand out in a city much less a remote island. The dining rooms are lovely. Don’t even think about having dinner anywhere else if you enjoy fine dining. We ate there all 3 nights of our stay and there was enough variety in the menu that we didn’t have to repeat any dishes, though they were so good that it was tempting to do so.

As wonderful as the lodge is, the best part of staying at Church Hill is the warmth and hospitality of Chris and Dee. They are thoroughly delightful and will make sure that you get the most from your visit to the island. They host drinks, including a good selection of high end liquor, and canapés for guests before dinner and it’s a wonderful, convivial way of getting to know them and the other guests. We so much enjoyed the company of another couple staying there that we ended up dining together one evening. These are the kinds of experiences that enhance travel immeasurably. Chris gave us valuable advice about where to hike on our own when we weren’t being guided and was always available to help.

 

FLETCHER LODGE – DUNEDIN www.fletcherlodge.co.nz  Edinburgh Suite

We spent 2 nights at Fletcher Lodge while visiting Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula and felt that we couldn’t have stayed in a better place. In a city so rich in history we enjoyed staying in this historic industrialist’s house which marries all the modern amenities you need with an old world charm that expresses its sense of place.
The lodge is decorated in elegant, opulent style with antiques, tapestries and stained glass. We stayed in the Edinburgh Suite, which is located up one flight of stairs from the ground floor. Just outside the room is a niche with a station offering tea, coffee and biscuits/cookies for all of the guests to enjoy.

The bedroom was spacious, serene and handsomely appointed with a King-sized sleigh bed, night tables, a sitting area, desk, flat-screen TV and a large armoire outfitted with plenty of hangers and drawers as well as iron and iron board and waffle weave robes. We especially liked the antique hat boxes and case atop it adding period character. There were large windows and French doors leading to a private balcony with table and chairs exposing a wide-ranging view of city rooftops and the sea in the distance. The bathroom was positively luxurious with a claw-footed deep soaking tub, good-sized shower with excellent water pressure and thoughtful amenities like a toothbrush and toothpaste holder and high quality hairdryer.

Nights were peaceful and we slept well. Breakfasts were very good, served in the lovely dining room. There’s also a cozy sitting room for guests to enjoy. Secure parking on the property is available if you have a vehicle.

The owners, Keith and Ewa were very welcoming and helpful. It’s easy to walk to and from the main areas of town to the lodge.  This is a terrific place to stay when exploring Dunedin and the region especially if you prefer places with character, as we do.

 

HAPUKU LODGE & TREE HOUSES – KAIKOURA www.hapukulodge.com  

We spent 2 nights in a Tree House and enjoyed it very much. It’s not far from town though you need a car if you stay here. The common areas and accommodations feature modern, elegant décor and a relaxed vibe. All of the Tree Houses are charmingly named after native NZ birds, ours was Korimako, the sweet-voiced Bellbird. It’s a steep climb upstairs to the room but well worth the minor effort for the stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The beautiful room is open plan with a cozy sitting area overlooking the lodge property to the west and the breathtaking snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura Range. The lounge includes 2 leather chairs with ottomans, a small wood and pine cone fireplace and large windows, the better to enjoy the view. The comfortable king sized bed had an attractive hand-carved redwood headboard, 2 small night tables, a desk and a closet. The closet offered hanging space, a smallish safe not large enough for a 12” Macbook, iron and iron board and microfiber robes as well as clever pull-out slatted shelves for luggage, however there were no drawers anywhere in the room for underwear, socks or clothes that you wouldn’t hang. There was also a small pantry niche with sink, mini-fridge, coffee grinder, coffee beans, kettle, press pot, teas and chewy house-made ginger cookies. The fridge contained water, soft drinks, beer and a bottle of Pinot Noir from the Marlborough region. The large whirlpool tub in the bathroom overlooks olive groves on the property and a distant view of the sea to the east, which was also on view from the shower and a small adjoining outdoor balcony. There’s a single sink vanity and adequate room for toiletries along with a good hairdryer. The toilet is in a separate room and there’s a curtain to separate the bathroom from the rest of the room if you’d like some privacy while bathing. The only mirror is above the sink, no full length one. We enjoyed watching Karearea, NZ Falcons, gliding and chasing each other around the olive trees from our outdoor balcony as well as a small herd of red deer with impressive antlers. We were allowed to park our car in front of our tree house so it was very easy to come and go, though it’s a short walk to the main building for meals. Reasonably priced same day laundry service is available.

On both mornings of our stay we had early departures so we weren’t able to sample the breakfasts in the dining room. Instead breakfast hampers were delivered to our room during turndown service. We didn’t completely enjoy these breakfasts and recommend that you try to take advantage of the included breakfast in the dining room. The advantage of arising early was catching spectacular sunrises. We greatly enjoyed the food and wine on offer for dinner in the lovely dining room, plus service was attentive and personable. 

 

TE KOI – THE LODGE AT BRONTE – https://tekoithelodge.com Hamilton Shoreline Villa

We spent 3 marvelous days at Te Koi, and our only regret was not being able to stay longer. I can’t think of anything that would have improved our experience from the warm welcome to affectionate farewells and everything in between. Ali and Ian are delightful hosts and you feel very much at home here.

The property is gorgeous with lush flowering gardens and beautiful views of the estuary. Birds appreciate the flowers as well and we enjoyed watching them from the patio of our luxurious villa. Our villa was at the far end and very secluded and peaceful. It offered the unexpected bonus of a parking spot so we could come and go easily, though it was a short walk to the main house for meals, no need to drive. 

The villa offers lovely views through large windows and is decorated with impeccable taste in a modern but cozy style, featuring a large sitting room with a comfy couch and armchairs and a flat screen TV, which we never got around to turning on. A hallway leads to a kitchenette with refrigerator, sink, coffee maker, glassware, plates, utensils, a jar of yummy homemade cookies and both recycle and waste bins under the sink. The bedroom has a King-sized bed with soft linens, bedside tables, a desk with a Bluetooth speaker and a seating area. We slept blissfully. There is a separate dressing room with loads of space for hanging clothes plus shelves and a full length mirror. The bathroom provided plenty of space for toiletries, a large soaking tub, great shower, heated towel rack, good towels, terrycloth robes and quality soaps, shampoo and hairdryer. The whole place is light, airy, clean and well maintained but you can draw the blinds if you want to sleep in. The aforementioned patio is equipped with cushioned lounge chairs and an umbrella. Wi-Fi was fast and easy to use.

The main house is a designer’s dream and is filled with personal items that reflect the warm, sophisticated charm and character of its owners. We enjoyed having drinks and canapes before dinner in the lovely living room and chatting with Ali and Ian over breakfast.

Ali is a highly accomplished chef, and Ian sure knows how to choose wines, so the dinners were a real treat. It’s an easy drive to Nelson if you want to venture out, but you would be quite happy dining in here. Breakfasts were also excellent with great coffee, delicious fresh fruit and cooked items made to order. 

Ian is exceedingly helpful when you want advice about where to go and what to see, and steered us to some marvelous local shops and sights. I have to mention Louis and Otis, two of the most adorable dogs we’ve ever met. We got to interact with them a lot, though if you’re not a dog fan I’m sure that you wouldn’t be bothered by them and their fur is hypoallergenic so not an issue for those with allergies.

 

QT MUSEUM HOTEL – WELLINGTON www.museumhotel.co.nz Executive Studio Harbor View

We spent 2 nights at the QT and were highly impressed with the public spaces and art collection. We spent a good deal of time perusing the artwork and just wish that they offered a printed guide to identify the artists and names of the pieces. Perhaps they offer guided tours but we weren’t advised of this when we asked. Service was a mixed bag, the front desk team was polite but could be a bit aloof and somehow ordered us a taxi at the wrong time, however, one of the bellmen, Moritz, was very friendly and helpful and there was a young French woman who was as well, though we failed to get her name. We valet parked our rental car with the hotel and felt it was worth the cost for the convenience, though there’s an open lot right across the street.

The QT is in an ideal location just steps from the Te Papa Museum and close to restaurants. We arrived on a gloriously sunny Sunday and there were food trucks and vendors across the road along the harbor to explore.

We stayed in a studio accessed via a different elevator bank and it was a very nice space, however, we expected interesting art in our room and all we had was a black metal squiggle on one wall. Hardly equal to the art in other areas of the hotel. We had a harbor view, though a floor or two higher would have afforded a better perspective since we could see into rooms in the other section of the hotel, and vice versa. 

The room was surprisingly small but laid out well to take advantage of the space. There was a king sized bed, a bench, 1 chair, a desk, a closet with 2 drawers and hangers, a microwave, stove top, dishwasher, small refrigerator, washer/dryer combo that was tricky to figure out but that worked, and an iron and ironing board. We especially liked the plush black bathrobes. The bathroom was also small and not designed nearly as well with 1 sink, a tub abutting the shower, a door that opened up into the shower door and a toilet jammed in there. It was a functional but awkward layout.

Breakfast was included with our room and the breakfasts were excellent and varied, served in the beautiful Hippopotamus restaurant with lovely views. We also had dinner at the restaurant and enjoyed it enormously.

 

ACACIA CLIFFS LODGE – TAUPO http://www.acaciacliffslodge.co.nz  Lake View Room

We spent 2 wonderful nights at Acacia Cliffs Lodge. The location is unbeatable in a peaceful hillside community a short drive from town with stunning views of Lake Taupo and the mountains. The common areas are modern, stylish and elegant as are the guest rooms. Our room was a bit small but very cleverly laid out to maximize space, light and airy with floor-to-ceiling windows, a comfortable king sized bed dressed in quality linens, night tables, 2 cushioned wicker chairs, a small desk and closet, a coffee/tea station with a mini-fridge, and a balcony with seating and that amazing view. We slept soundly. The bathroom was spacious and well-appointed with dual sinks, large shower with both rainfall and handheld shower heads, heated towel rack, high end toiletries and hairdryer. 

But it’s the personal touch that stands out. Linda and Rick are skilled hosts and interesting people who go out of their way to be helpful and accommodating and who foster a warm and inviting atmosphere. Guests can mingle over complimentary drinks and yummy canapés before heading out to dinner. Rick also cooks delicious breakfasts, you can tell that he’s been a professional chef. And as if all of this weren’t enough, there’s also convenient off-street parking. Acacia offers excellent value and an ideal place to stay while enjoying the many attractions in the area.

 

THE BOATSHED – WAIHEKE ISLAND www.boatshed.co.nz – the Watertower

The shared spaces are stunning and the view of Little Oneroa Bay from the terrace is exquisite. While we waited for our room to be ready we enjoyed a complimentary fruit plate and the jaw-dropping view. We chose to stay in the just-opened Watertower suite. There were no photos on the site when we booked since it was still being built, however the description extolled the large open north, west and south facing sea views taking in both Little Oneroa and Te Huruhi bays.  We expected an even better view than from the main building, but were sadly disappointed as the description was greatly exaggerated.  The accommodations are lovely, the bedroom and bathroom were spacious and well-appointed and there’s a fabulous lounge on the top floor with comfortable cushioned lounge chairs and a kitchenette, etc.  From the lounge there’s no view at all, though it’s light and airy.  Outdoors the wraparound balcony was rather narrow with a comfortable rocking chair, a table and chairs and a deep copper soaking tub (which wasn’t entirely private), but the views are mainly of surrounding hills and houses with glimpses of the bays. In addition, it’s across the road from the main house and you have to take a circuitous path to find the entrance. We had some trouble with it the first couple of times, especially at night.  The atmosphere of the place was more like a hotel than a small lodge.  At the other lodges the hosts would serve drinks and canapés before dinner, all complimentary, and when there were other guests we’d gather together and chat, and most times the hosts would join us and it was convivial and fun.  At Boatshed, we had to pay for drinks and everyone was off in their own space, not interacting, and the manager didn’t join us.  The canapés were brought to your table more like an amuse-bouche before dinner.  The people working there were all very nice and helpful. We were very comfortable and enjoyed the place, however, we expected more.  We were probably a bit spoiled by the other places we stayed.

 

RESTAURANTS

LOS ANGELES

 

ASANEBO 11941 Ventura Blvd. Studio City http://asanebo-restaurant.com/

Solid and well regarded Japanese restaurant. It is convenient to Griffith Park, so we had lunch there after visiting the park and observatory.  We had the sushi omakase and found the fish to be fresh and well-prepared, though nothing extraordinary. We wouldn’t go out of our way to go there again, especially given the high price point.

 

TROS MEC 716 N. Highland Ave. https://www.troismec.com/

Kyrsten and Scot have long been fans of Chef Ludo Lefebvre, enjoying dinners at his LA pop-ups, so we were all looking forward to dinner at Trois Mec. Ludo was not present that night but I don’t believe that this alone could account for the lack of quality that we experienced. Rather than the tasting menu with many small courses that we anticipated, they were serving family style. Again, this alone does not mean that the food could not be excellent. This dinner would have been disappointing at any price point, but at this cost it’s practically criminal.

We were caught in traffic and arrived about 10 minutes late so they brought the aperitif and first wine along with the first 2 courses together. We accepted it with grace because we were late, however the rest of the meal felt very rushed as well and we had caught up with the other tables very quickly. The servers were very personable but the pace of service was terrible.

As for the food, the first 2 courses were crudités and a couple of cooked vegetables. I love vegetables and when you have a creative chef like Flynn McGarry (Gem, NYC) who elevates common vegetables like cabbage to haute cuisine, they can be a revelation, but raw vegetables with an undistinguished aioli isn’t what you expect from a fine dining restaurant. Next there was a type of bouillabaisse broth minus seafood that was mediocre at best and at that price they can afford to add some seafood. We had the misfortune of ordering the special extra cost course, risotto with white truffles. Sounds good in theory but the risotto had a very strong and unpleasant tasting orange sauce that completely overwhelmed the truffles. What a waste of that subtle delicacy! The main course was lamb, which was tender and perfectly cooked, but ruined by an overabundance of rosemary, it was nearly inedible. Rosemary is pungent, a little goes a long way, and the lamb was smothered in it. There was some braised lamb in the dish as well and that was palatable but nothing special. Dessert was fruit salad. Again, I love fruit, but even I can assemble a fruit salad, there was nothing even remotely interesting about it. The wine pairings were uninspired to put it kindly. Perhaps the kitchen does better with their regular menu, though I doubt that it could be that much better. How does a French chef fail to properly execute classic French dishes?  The atmosphere was downscale casual with music blasting, so conversation wasn’t easy.  There are wonderful restaurants in LA, don’t waste your money here.

 

VESPAIO  225 S. Grand Ave. https://www.vespaiodtla.com/

Conveniently located a few steps from the museum, there’s a dining room with table service, an outdoor section and a more casual café section for a quick bite.  The food was better than we expected, service was attentive and the room is attractive.

 

REPUBLIQUE – 624 S. La Brea Avenue https://republiquela.com/

Kyrsten, Scot, Stu and I dined at Republique after museum hopping downtown and were exceedingly pleased with the quality of the food. The décor is cozy and inviting and though a bit loud we were able to converse without shouting. We shared a variety of dishes so we could better experience the menu, a format that works well here. First, their bread is not to be missed, served with rich and flavorful Normandy butter. We started with scallops and salmon tartar, both delicious. This was followed by cauliflower and a whole Dover sole filleted at the table. Both were excellent. We shared spinach cavatelli with mushrooms that was also luscious. Our last savory course was the short ribs, tender and so outstanding that we all wished we had room for more of it. We couldn’t resist some ice cream for dessert followed by espresso.

The wine list is well curated though we could have done better with the wine. We ordered a very good Chablis that was delivered late and served warm. The sommelier was aware that it was the wrong temperature and perhaps could have suggested an alternative rather than trying to chill it while we were already eating. She poured a splash initially to give it time to chill, but another server came shortly afterwards and filled our glasses before we could stop him. She recommended a Crozes Hermitage Syrah that I wasn’t crazy about but that was acceptable. There were a couple of service glitches but we couldn’t fault the charm of our main server. Overall, a very good meal and we’d gladly return when we’re back in LA

 

 

 

AUCKLAND

 

SOUL BAR & BISTRO – 16-18/Lower Hobson Street & Customs St  https://www.soulbar.co.nz/

The restaurant is on a pier overlooking the harbor with indoor and outdoor terrace seating. Service was efficient and personable and we had a great table on the terrace with lovely views. The specialty is seafood and I enjoyed fresh, briny oysters followed by hapuku with crayfish ravioli.  Stu’s tuna carpaccio was outstanding and the flounder was delicious. We shared an order of asparagus and I had a fine glass of Pinot Gris from Central Otago.

 

THE GROVE – St. Patricks Sq, Wyndham St. https://www.thegroverestaurant.co.nz/

Stu and I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The Grove.  We were warmly greeted and seated in their elegant, intimate dining room, which was busier than you might expect for a Monday evening.  Service was attentive and gracious, and we especially appreciated the well-informed and charming Italian sommelier.  We wanted to try a selection of the menu and opted for a 7 course tasting menu with wine pairing for me.  There were tasty snacks to start, a plump oyster with garnish and eel churros.  The first course was tuna tartare paired with an amazing dry sherry.  The second course was refreshing consisting of asparagus served several ways paired with Riesling.  Chardonnay was a perfect match for the delicious prawn on John Dory dish.  Next a tender poussin accompanied by a stuffed squash blossom and an elegant Pinot Noir.  The luscious double lamb chop with mixed veggies was the last savory course matched with Syrah.  We were offered Limoncello ice pops as a palate cleanser before the first dessert, scrumptious pineapple brioche with foam.  The Reciotto di Soave with notes of pineapple complemented it perfectly. The final course was a light meringue-like dome that was superb, though the off-dry Sauvignon Blanc served with it didn’t quite work for me.  There were petits fours with coffee to wrap it up.  The menu changes so you probably wouldn’t get the same dishes, but everything was expertly prepared and presented so whatever you order is bound to be excellent.

                 

FRANKTON/QUEENSTOWN

 

ODELAY 5 Hawthorne Dr. Frankton near Queenstown airport http://odelay.co.nz/

Convenient place for a quick breakfast or lunch if you’re going to or coming from the airport since it’s in a small mall nearby. The room is light and airy and there’s ample outdoor seating as well.  You order meals at the counter and they’re delivered to your table.  The place was very busy but service was fast and pleasant.  I had a very fresh and delicious salad with chicken and Stu had a tasty steak sandwich with onions and fried potatoes. The portions were substantial and neither of us could finish all of our food.

 

TE ANAU

 

REDCLIFF 12 Mokonui St. Te Anau - http://www.theredcliff.co.nz/

Redcliff’s best features are the charming, rustic decor and delightful servers. Some of them were foreign students working their way around NZ, including ours, a helpful and gregarious young Dutch woman. The food was good though I admit that we expected better. I was disappointed to learn that they didn't have the wild hare backstrap that is so widely praised. I ordered scallops with pork belly followed by the lamb and my husband started with tomato and capsicum soup then the steak. I had a glass of a decent Merlot/Malbec blend as well but neither of us was up for dessert. The food was good and possibly the best that you can find in Te Anau.

RISTORANTE PIZZERIA PARADISO 1 Milford Crescent - http://www.paradisopizzeria.co.nz/

Casual family restaurant with a wood-fired oven serving pizza, pasta and other Italian standards.  We shared a Margarita pizza that was quite good.  The meatballs we ordered were only ok, but elevated by a tasty, spicy sauce. I washed them down with a drinkable Montepulciano.  I greatly enjoyed an espresso and Stu couldn’t resist the chocolate gelato.

 

OBAN, STEWART ISLAND

 

CHURCH HILL BOUTIQUE LODGE - http://www.churchhill.co.nz/

We dined at Church Hill all 3 nights of our Stewart Island visit and enjoyed it enormously! If you enjoy fine dining in a charming setting with personable and attentive service, there’s really no contest on the island. The food is expertly prepared and artistically presented by Deanne, the gracious co-owner of the restaurant and lodge with her charming husband Chris. The young servers were terrific. We got to try a variety of dishes and enjoyed every bite, but would especially like to praise the tender and flavorful crayfish, the delicious, perfectly cooked salmon, the savory rack of lamb, excellent steak and the most amazing blue cod we’ve ever tasted served with vegetables fresh from the lodge garden and crispy potato pancakes. There’s a very good selection of wine and I enjoyed sampling New Zealand wines that paired well with the food and that I can’t get at home. The restaurant offers tremendous value for the quality and is far superior to anything you’d expect on such a remote island. They serve a good breakfast only for those staying at the lodge but non-residents can reserve a table for dinner, which is mandatory during high season.

SOUTH SEA HOTEL - http://www.southseahotel.co.nz/

With the exception of a couple of small food stands and cafés, which were closed since it was early in the season, the pub in the South Sea Hotel was our only dining choice aside from Church Hill.  It’s well located across the street from the bay in the heart of the small village of Oban.  It’s a casual joint with a dining room and a bar area with tables.  We had lunch there since Church Hill doesn’t serve lunch, and it’s adequate, but not a place you’d frequent if you had a better choice.

 

DUNEDIN

 

ETRUSCO AT THE SAVOY 8 Moray Pl. http://www.etrusco.co.nz/

There aren’t a lot of restaurants open on Sunday evening in Dunedin so we settled on the Etrusco. The atmosphere is casual and lively with lots of groups and families. There was also a piano player the night we were there, which is a nice touch. We were offered a larger table near the piano or a smaller table by the window and opted for the window, which was a bit quieter and afforded a street view. The servers were very friendly and cordial, though service overall was slow. The food was fairly average but we have to admit that we’re spoiled when it comes to Italian food, so our standards are a bit high. We shared flatbread with prosciutto and tomatoes that was tasty. I had the Penne verde with spinach and basil and Stu had the ravioli with pumpkin and white sauce, both good. I enjoyed a good glass of Chianti Classico Riserva with the meal.

IRONIC CAFÉ 9 Anzac Ave. - http://www.ironiccafebar.co.nz/

Stu and I stopped by Ironic Cafe for lunch after visiting the nearby Toitu Otago Settler’s Museum. It’s a bit tricky to find, if you’re facing the old railway station it’s tucked away on a street to the left. The room is bright and airy and the service was friendly and prompt. I had miso salmon on a bed of vegetables along with a nice glass of Central Otago Pinot Noir.  The salmon was perfectly cooked and sauced, tender, moist and flavorful, and the veggies were delicious. Stu had a steak sandwich that he greatly enjoyed. The food was fresh and well prepared so we were very pleased.  They have a small branch inside the Settler’s Museum also and we bought sandwiches there to take away for dinner since we expected to return late from our peninsula tour. The sandwiches were also totally yummy.

KAIKOURA

HAPUKU LODGE - www.hapukulodge.com

Breakfast and dinner are included with the room though I believe that they also accept dinner reservations from people who are not staying at the lodge.  The dining room is elegant, service is attentive and the food and wine are very good.  There’s a surcharge for the crayfish, but it’s worth it. Dining in Kaikoura is a bit limited and I suspect that this is the best restaurant in the area.

 

THE PIER HOTEL RESTAURANT 1 Avoca St. Kaikoura - http://www.thepierhotel.co.nz/

A casual pub style restaurant in a small hotel near the sea where we had lunch.  You give your order at the bar and the food is delivered to your table. There are also picnic tables outside. I had a crayfish chowder that was good, but not especially noteworthy, and Stu had a pork belly sandwich that he enjoyed.  It’s fine for lunch when in the area.

 

NELSON/BRONTE

 

URBAN OYSTER BAR & EATERY 278 Hardy St. Nelson - https://www.urbaneatery.co.nz/

It’s a casual modern eatery decorated in the popular minimalist industrial style with a friendly team and tasty small plates to share. We ordered sashimi, beef sliders, pork buns and “razzle-dazzle” cauliflower, which doesn’t involve jazz hands. We enjoyed every bite. I drank a lovely Rimu Grove Pinot Noir with the food. All in all a terrific meal. At lunch it was lively but not crazy loud. We passed by one evening and the place was literally overflowing so undoubtedly a noisier experience at dinner.

 

TE KOI LODGE 133 Bronte Rd E, Bronte - https://tekoithelodge.com

Though not a restaurant open to the public, chef-owner Ali prepares scrumptious breakfasts and will also prepare dinner and picnic lunches with advance notice.  The food is fresh, delicious and expertly prepared.  Her husband and co-owner, Ian, has a wonderful wine collection and will regale you with well-chosen pairings during the meal.  The lodge is such a beautiful, elegant place and in the warmer weather there’s outdoor seating in the lovely garden.

 

MOUTERE HILLS WINERY 42 Eggers Rd, Upper Moutere  – http://www.mouterehills.co.nz/

Stu and I had lunch outdoors on a patio with a view towards the vineyards.  We started with tapas, 5 small dishes to share.  Stu had fettucine with chicken and I had John Dory. I tried a very good glass of Viognier followed by their Chardonnay.  We found the food to be mediocre, but I enjoyed sampling the wines and the setting was lovely.

 

HOPGOODS & CO 284 Trafalgar St. Nelson - http://www.hopgoods.co.nz/

Wonderful restaurant in a handsome historic building located in the most charismatic section of Nelson.  We started with a fabulous King Salmon dish and Steak Tartare. For mains we chose the delicious Duck Confit and Zucchini Flower Polenta. We shared a side of green beans that were flavorful and perfectly cooked, tender with a slight crunch.  The wines by the glass were excellent as well, a lovely sparkling Tohu Rena Rosé from the Marlborough region and a terrific 2016 Man o’ War Bellerophon Syrah from Waiheke Island. Service was friendly and attentive and the room is attractive.

 

WELLINGTON

 

LOGAN BROWN 192 Cuba St. - https://www.loganbrown.co.nz/

Occupying a former bank, instead of being grand and soaring, we found the room design to be oddly sequestered and unappealing.  Service seemed a bit amateurish for a restaurant with this reputation.  We decided to have the 5 course tasting menu so we could try the chef’s signature dishes, which included Paua (abalone) Ravioli with lime beurre blanc and Wild Fiordland Venison. We started with scrumptious gin-cured salmon paired with fabulous Nautilus Brut. We greatly enjoyed the food and wine, though the dessert was not memorable.

 

JOE’S GARAGE 5 Tory St. - https://www.joes.co.nz/restaurants/wellington/

Great place for a quick, casual breakfast, lunch or dinner or just a drink or cup of coffee.  We went for lunch and both ordered a sandwich called Teddy Best, which was composed of tender and juicy free range chicken breast garnished with caramelized onions, tomato, arugula and whole grain mustard aioli on an excellent toasted ciabatta and we shared a side order of perfectly ripe avocado.  They were hawking a special on a NZ rosé wine so I tried a glass and enjoyed it.

 

HIPPOPOTAMUS QT Hotel 90 Cable St. -  https://www.qthotelsandresorts.com/wellington/eat-drink/hippopotamus/

We had an outstanding dinner at Hippopotamus.  We were granted a fabulous table by the window, service was flawless and engaging and the food was creative and scrumptious.  We ordered the 6 course degustation menu and I had the wine pairing.  The meal began with Awatoru’s “Albacore Tuna” Pastrami, Black Sesame Lavosh, Semi-Dried Tomato, Cauliflower Vichyssoise, Fried Caper & Pearl Barley, paired with Nautilus Albarino Malborough 2017, next Le Chevreuil Sauvage - 46C Venison Short Loin with Horopito, Kelp, Wild Spinach,Wood- Ear Mushroom, Juniper Berry Jus, Rasberry Meringue, Dry Fig & Gipsy Bacon paired with Chasing Harvest, ‘Via Rock & Stone’ Douro Portugal2013, then Kingfish Fillet, Apatu Smoked Roe, Turmeric & Horopito Beurre Blanc, Watercress & Purple Dawn Crisps (my personal favorite dish) paired with Semillon, Chardonnay, Muscat and Gewurztraminer Vergence White by Pegasus Bay 2016, followed by 55 Day Aged Beef Filet, Foie Gras Éclair (sublime!), Heirloom Carrots, Carrot Silk & Jus with Raats Family Estate ‘Dolomite’ Stellenbosh Cabernet Franc South Africa 2012. The cheese course presented Over The Moon Burgundy Moon Cheese served with Chardonnay & Savagnin Domaine Rolet Cote du Jura 2010 and dessert was a refreshing Mango Mousse with Petit Manseng Churton Marlborough2016.  Although we had many excellent dining experiences during the trip, this was our finest dinner in New Zealand.

 

 

TAIHAPE

 

LE CAFÉ TELEPHONIQUE 8 Huia St. Taihape - https://www.le-cafe.co.nz/

A cute place with airy décor serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.  You place your order at the counter with the cheerful team and select your own table.  I had decent fish and chips that included a fresh salad with tasty dressing. Stu had a pulled pork burger that was scrumptious. The counter lady recommended a nice Linden Estate Chardonnay which I enjoyed with the fish.  It makes an ideal stopping point for lunch if you’re driving from Wellington to Taupo.

 

TAUPO

 

THE BISTRO 17 Tamamutu St. https://thebistro.nz

The Bistro is well named since it offers a perfect bistro style experience with a casual ambiance, good wine and fresh well-prepared food. The chef is brilliant with vegetables and a vegetarian could get a terrific meal here. I started with a tasty root vegetable salad and Stu had the vegetable tempura which was equally delicious. For mains we ordered the fish of the day and the duck confit. Stu enjoyed the duck, however, the fish, trevally from Hawkes Bay, was exceptional, fresh, perfectly cooked and scrumptious served atop a bed of superb vegetables. It's the kind of food I like to eat all the time. I had a very nice glass of rosé to accompany the meal. Service was attentive and congenial. If we lived in Taupo we'd dine here regularly.

 

THE BRANTRY 45 Rifle Range Rd. Taupo - https://thebrantry.co.nz/

We had dinner one evening at The Brantry and were underwhelmed, especially since it’s considered one of the best restaurants in the area.  The rooms weren’t especially pretty and service was friendly but not quite efficient. We could overlook that if the food lived up to expectations, but it was only acceptable, a bit bland and lacking in creativity.  Perhaps we picked an off night or the wrong dishes. 

 

WAIHEKE ISLAND

 

THE BOATSHED Tawa & Huia St. Oneroa - https://www.boatshed.co.nz/

The Brazilian chef, Reggie, is very talented and super-nice and we greatly enjoyed the dinner we had there one night.  However, at dinner the service was exceptionally slow. It took over 3 hours for 3 courses and it wasn’t crowded, open only to hotel residents.  I suspect he needs more help in the kitchen.  The cooked breakfast we had the last morning, a short rib hash, was incredible, though other days were more ordinary.  The setting can’t be beat, overlooking the magnificent vista of Oneroa Bay.

 

TANTALUS ESTATE 70 - 72 Onetangi Road, Onetangi - https://www.tantalus.co.nz/

We had lunch with our guide at Tantalus Estate during our island tour and it was the best meal that we had on Waiheke. We had a large table in the outdoor garden with views of the vineyards.  Our French server was a delight and service was timely and professional.  The food was delicious, fresh and perfectly cooked and the wines were superb, a 2017 Cachette Chardonnay and 2014 Evoque, a red Bordeaux style blend.  Our guide was a fascinating companion which only enhanced the experience further.

 

 

MUDBRICK RESTAURANT & VINEYARD 126 Church Bay Rd. - https://www.mudbrick.co.nz/

The restaurant setting was quite lovely though the dining room was a bit larger and louder than we’d expected. The dinner at Mudbrick, a 7 course tasting menu, was very good, though not as first-rate as we’d anticipated, and service was a bit off.  We had a personable server, but service was slow with some timing issues, such as delivering a course well before the paired wine.  We had a great seat by the window with extensive views and got to see a lightning display that was like watching fireworks. Very dramatic! Overall a disappointing meal though.