LISBON – 4 days
HOTELS
Santiago de Alfama – excellent small boutique hotel on a small street in the oldest and most charismatic section of Lisbon. Very good breakfast with in and outdoor seating.
Myriad by Sanaa – standard modern business hotel with small cleverly designed rooms and fantastic views of the Tagus River. Close to the airport so a good place to overnight before the flight home. It’s located in the modern Nations Park area built for Expo-98 so an opportunity to explore that area. Breakfast was the worst of the trip.
SIGHTS
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga – wonderful collection of art and artifacts. Hieronymus Bosch’s Temptations of St. Anthony alone is worth the price of admission
Museu da Marioneta - a quirky and very fun museum dedicated to puppetry. One of our favorite places on the trip.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museums - the founder’s immense private collection spanning Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic and Asian art along with European paintings and sculpture, coins and decorative arts in one building, and a modern Portuguese art collection in an adjacent one.
Castelo de São Jorge - a Moorish citadel on a hilltop built in the mid-11th C on the site of earlier Roman fortifications that date as far back as 48 BC. The complex includes the fortress, remains of the royal palace and former residences of the elite who lived there. Excellent views.
Miradouro das Portas do Sol—an expansive balcony overlooking the Tagus River
Praca do Comercio - a magnificent square opening to the river
Rua Augusta Arch - completed in 1875 with an ornate clock and statues representing Glory, Ingenuity and Valor
Rossio Square - a commercial section with an exquisite train station featuring ornately carved horseshoe shaped arches
Jeronimos Monastery - The monastery, a world heritage site, was built by King Manuel I in 1496 for the Order of St. Jerome. This is a must-see along with the attached Santa Maria Church which contains the tombs of Portuguese notables including explorer Vasco da Gamma
Belem Tower – 4 story Manueline style tower built by the King as a fortification in 1519
Pastéis de Belem - a renowned bakery specializing in the luscious egg custard pastries called Pastel de Nata
Nations Park (Parque das Nações ) - former Expo-98 exhibition area on the Tagus River. Modern architecture, cable car, riverside promenade, lovely views.
Oceanarium of Lisbon – well designed aquarium, nice to visit if you’re in the area.
RESTAURANTS
Le Chat - bright glassed-in riverside restaurant a few steps from the Museu Nacional. Good food and fabulous views from outdoor patio.
Belcanto – elegant restaurant with adventurous food
Restaurante Alma – our favorite restaurant in Lisbon, excellent
O Faia – thrilling fado show with very talented singers and musicians, gracious service and delicious food. I can’t imagine a better place to experience fado.
Restaurant Páteo – casual dining popular with locals. The food was undistinguished and the reception chilly so we wouldn’t recommend it.
LISBON ENVIRONS – GUIDED DAY TOUR
Queluz National Palace - a Baroque 18th C royal palace which served as the residence of Queen Maria and her husband and uncle, Dom Pedro III. Loads of interesting history.
Pena Palace - a whimsical 19th C Romanticist castle on a hilltop overlooking the town of Sintra
Cascais - a small fishing village that morphed into a seaside retreat for 19th and 20th C aristocrats
Estoril - an exclusive beach resort town with a glamorous Casino where spies, royals and rogues allegedly congregated during WWII and that inspired Ian Fleming’s Bond adventure, Casino Royale
Furnas do Guincho - a popular seafood restaurant with breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and wonderful food.
SELF DRIVING FOR THE REST OF THE TRIP
OBIDOS, Nazaré, BATALHA, CONÍMBRIGA, COIMBRA – 2 days
OBIDOS - a beautiful town with medieval crenellated walls enclosing appealing whitewashed houses accented with primary colors, sprays of flowers and terracotta tile roofs in a warren of narrow cobblestoned streets. We enjoyed the lovely small churches, such as Santa Maria, the musicians in the square, and sampling Ginjinha, a bite-sized treat of locally made cherry liqueur in a chocolate cup.
Nazaré – the primary attractions in this fishermen’s town are the women’s traditional petticoats, the extensive white sand beach and the notorious Nazaré canyon, a phenomenon that produces record-breaking waves as high as 100 ft./30.5 m that are every adventurous surfer’s fondest wet dream. We took the funicular from the beach and visited the main square and the monumental Nossa Senhora de Nazaré church.
BATALHA – Mosteiro da Batalha means Monastery of the Battle and this massive monastery was built for the Dominican order to thank the Virgin Mary for Portugal’s victory in the decisive 1385 Battle of Aljubarrota with the Castilians that lead to Portugal’s independence at that time. King João I, his wife Filipa, and his son are entombed in the Founder’s Chapel along with Prince Henry the Navigator and a tomb dedicated to unknown warriors, which is guarded by two stoic soldiers in camouflage fatigues wielding automatic weapons. Among our favorite features were the 7 Imperfect or Unfinished chapels, with richly carved stonework yet no ceilings, so they are still open to the elements and eerie in their beauty. This is a marvelous site to visit.
CONÍMBRIGA – The largest Roman settlement found in Portugal, it was occupied beginning around 139 BC and expanded during the reign of Caesar Augustus. It’s worth a visit for the exquisite and surprisingly well preserved mosaics, but there is much to see here including a small museum showcasing artifacts found on the site.
COIMBRA – A well preserved medieval university town with a rich history.
HOTEL
Quinta das Lagrimas – an 18th C palace with splendid gardens and a romantic legend. The rooms could use a refresh of the décor, but it’s a lovely place to stay with superb dining.
SIGHTS
University of Coimbra – Established in 1290 it’s one of the oldest universities in Europe. Plan to spend a few hours exploring the beautiful campus situated atop a hill that includes the Royal Palace, the Chapel of St. Michael, the magnificent Baroque Library and the 18th C Bell Tower with wide-ranging views of the campus and town. The buildings are arranged around a stately courtyard where an imposing statue of King João III presides. There’s also the College of Jesus with an 18th – 19th C Physics Lab and a Natural History Collection. School had just started and professors and upperclassmen looked distinguished clad in traditional suits and capes. You can also spot students busking on the streets in the commercial district. One of our favorite places in Portugal.
Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro - `located near the university with a fine collection of religious art, sculpture and archaeological artifacts including the Cryptoporticus, a section of an ancient Roman forum that once occupied the site. It has a very nice café serving a simple buffet lunch in a light-filled space with views of the Mondego River.
Sé Velha – 12th C Romanesque cathedral with an exquisitely carved and gilded altarpiece
Sé Nova – “new” cathedral, a Jesuit church built between 1598 – 1698 which became the main cathedral and Bishop’s seat in 1772.
Santa Cruz Church and Monastery – established in Romanesque style in the early 12th C, it was renovated in the 16th C in the Manueline style. The church is notable for housing the tombs of the first 2 kings of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques and his son Sancho I, and for possessing an ornate 18th C 4000-pipe organ that is reputed to be so complex that only 4 people know how to play it
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha – the captivating ruins of a 14th C convent on the banks of the Mondego that was abandoned in the 17th C after persistent flooding and replaced with a newer convent built on higher ground nearby. In addition to the ruins there’s a museum which recounts its history and displays objects excavated from the convent. Definitely worth a visit
Old Town – It’s fun wandering the charming streets with ancient houses winding up the steep hill
RESTAURANTS
Arcadas – the fine dining restaurant in Quinta das Lagrimas Hotel. One of our favorite restaurants of the trip with excellent food and wine and charming service. Breakfasts were also terrific served in a serene room overlooking the garden.
Restaurant Bussaco Palace – it wasn’t worth the long drive to dine at this restaurant in a grand old palace hotel. The palace is worth seeing for the architecture and décor if you don’t have to go too far out of your way, but the restaurant has seen better days. Stuffy atmosphere, inattentive service and uninspired food. The exact opposite of Arcadas.
PORTO – 2 days
AVEIRO – we stopped in Aveiro on our way to Porto and absolutely loved the town which is located on the Vouga River which spills into an Atlantic Ocean bay. With all of its canals and bridges, rides in traditional boats called Moliceiros, which resemble gondolas with fanciful painting, are popular with tourists. However, given the town’s overall attractiveness, it is not obnoxiously commercialized and the boat rides are informative and a great way to see the town, which includes pretty Art Nouveau buildings, churches and a good museum.
Museu de Aveiro – located in the former convent of Princess St. Joana, where she is entombed, it contains an extensive collection of religious art and artifacts and lovely azulejo tiles.
HOTEL
THE YEATMAN HOTEL – refined hotel that sits on a hill across the river from Porto in Vila Nova de Gaia with spectacular views of the river and city, which is easily accessible. It’s near all of the port wine warehouses, so it’s a convenient place for visiting them. Excellent facilities and dining.
SIGHTS
Taylor Fladgate Port Cellar – we had a private tour of the cellar, learning about how port wine is made followed by a tasting in their serene garden.
Half day tour – we had a half day tour of Porto with a wonderful guide who shared a lot about what life is like for those who live there as well as the history.
Ponte de Dom Luis I – we walked to town over this bridge that spans the Douro and offers wide-ranging views.
Ribeira Square – old town historic neighborhood with charming tile-roofed houses and a small square that opens onto the river dock.
Street art – there’s a fairly good selection of street art to enjoy as you stroll around town
Sé do Porto – like many others in Portugal, the cathedral was built and altered over many centuries, starting in the second half of the 12th C, and still retains its twin-towered Romanesque façade along with Gothic and Baroque elements. It features a beautiful stained glass rose window and a 17th C silver altarpiece in one of the chapels.
São Bento Station – a still active Beaux Arts train station whose main hall is decorated with 20,000 azulejo and colored tiles depicting important events in Portuguese history as well as mythical subjects and scenes of daily life.
Liberdade (Liberty) Square – monumental square featuring a statue of King Pedro IV, the French inspired Banco do Portugal, the Town Hall and the Palace of Cardosas (now the Intercontinental Hotel).
Livraria Lello – gorgeous bookstore with a famous winding stairway that is unfortunately overcrowded with tourists, but still worth seeing if you love books as much as we do.
Igreja do Carmo – church with azulejo tiles decorating the exterior, we took a look but didn’t enter.
Castelo do Queijo (Castle of Cheese) – a fort built around the 17th C on a rock in a scenic section of the coast.
RESTAURANTS
Yeatman Restaurant – 2 Michelin star dining in a stunning room with river and city views with excellent service. Breakfasts are fabulous as well.
Pedro Lemos – ranks among the very best restaurants that we tried. It’s a bit out of the way in Foz, but definitely worth a quick taxi ride. Creative, scrumptious dishes, warm and attentive service and a relaxed, cozy atmosphere. If you choose only one splurge meal in Porto, this is the place.
BRAGA
Sé de Braga – the oldest cathedral in Portugal, it was built in the 11th C many years before the country was founded. The interior combines austerity and opulence with plain stone columns and walls and a relatively simple nave along with an extravagant gilded Baroque organ and ornate side chapels. The Museum of Sacred Art housed in the Cathedral’s treasury contains a varied collection of art as well as religious and ethnic objects.
GUIMARAES
Guimaraes Castle – a medieval castle built in the 10th C as a key defensive fortification. There’s nothing inside but you can climb around and enjoy the views from the battlements.
Dukes of Bragança Palace – built in the 15th C by the illegitimate son of King João I and Ines Pires Esteves, Afonso 1st Duke of the house of Bragança. It was largely abandoned after the 15th C until it was repurposed as a military barracks in the 19th C. In the 20th C the interiors were decorated with impressive furniture, tapestry, weaponry and objects dating from 17th – 18th C. The dining hall is particularly appealing as is the chapel.
DOURO VALLEY – 2 days
AMARANTE
São Gonçalo Bridge and Monastery – Appealing town with the handsome arched São Gonçalo Bridge, that crosses the Tâmega River leading you to the 16th C same-named monastery, both dedicated to a 13th C local saint who was beloved for healing the sick. His tomb is found in the church attached to the monastery.
Amadeo de Souza Cardoso Museum – a delightful museum named for a local artist and showcasing his works along with other modern artists and photographers.
VILA REAL
Cais da Villa – we had a fabulous lunch at this modern and attractive restaurant near an old train station. It’s worth a detour though it was easily accessible along the route we took.
HOTEL
SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY - a world class luxury hotel, known for their spa services, which we didn’t try. The views of the vineyards and river valley were breathtaking. The breakfast buffet was a veritable feast with both indoor and outdoor dining areas.
SIGHTS
QUINTA DO CRASTO – a highly esteemed winery with a gorgeous estate in the hills above the Douro River. The drive is a challenge on narrow winding roads but it was worth a visit. We had a private tour of the property followed by a wine tasting and lunch on their outdoor patio. The wines are excellent.
FEEL DOURO CRUISE CO – we drove to Pinhão Pier and spent a couple of hours on a private yacht cruise on the Douro River. The captain and his wife were charming and it was a lovely way to see the river valley.
RESTAURANT
DOC – A high-end restaurant from well-known chef Rui Paula on the banks of the river with a stylish indoor dining room and a large outdoor deck. Food and wine were very good.
ALENTEJO - 2 days
HOTEL
SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL – a bucolic farm estate in the heart of the Alentejo region with vineyards, olive groves and cork trees offering simple rustic-chic accommodations along with on-site pool, spa, boutique and restaurant. From our spacious room we had a wonderful view of the fields and the nearby town of Monsaraz. It makes a good base for exploring the area.
SIGHTS
BELMONTE – this is the most active and historical Jewish community in Portugal and site of a large 15th C fortress, a synagogue and the small Romanesque-Gothic Church of Santiago. The day that we visited these sites were all closed so we walked around and admired the buildings from the outside.
MARVÃO – an exceedingly picturesque hilltop village with an imposing medieval castle constructed in 876 by an Islamic knight, Ibn Marwan, that changed hands many times over the centuries, was expanded and reinforced, and is still in good condition and fun to explore. Views are magnificent including the lovely white-washed Church of Santa Maria nearby. We wandered around on foot admiring the charming houses, but ultimately decided to descend to Portagem, situated on the Sever River, for lunch.
MONSARAZ - this peaceful walled medieval town was the biggest surprise of the trip, we didn’t expect it to be so incredibly captivating. From its high vantage there are expansive views of the countryside, the Guadiana River and artificially created Lake Alqueva. Monsaraz Castle was built by King Dinis in the 14th C and in the 19th C was repurposed as a bullfighting ring, the only one of its kind that we encountered. The splendid white church, Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Lagoa, dates to the 16th C and features 2 bell towers and a glorious gilded altarpiece. We enjoyed just walking around to appreciate the pretty white tile-roofed homes with their vivid flower pots and boxes.
DARK SKY ALQUEVA – one of the main reasons why we stayed near Monsaraz was to participate in the dark sky program at a local observatory. Due to the very low light pollution in the Alentejo star-gazing is particularly rewarding. We joined a group of visitors with a wonderful astronomer who pointed out the Milky Way and the important constellations and shared information about the universe. It was fascinating, and at times humorous, and altogether a wonderful experience.
EVORA – a UNESCO World Heritage site. Another walled village, this one considerably larger and more visited, though still appealing. We parked in a lot outside the walls and walked around town.
Sé de Evora – a splendid cathedral on the highest point of the town, built between 1280 and 1350 in the shape of a Latin cross and brimming with Baroque ornamentation and religious treasures. You can ascend to the rooftop terrace with battlements and towers for amazing views and stroll through the peaceful Gothic cloisters.
Igreja de São Francisco (Church of St. Francis) – dating from 1475 – 1550’s and even more famous than the cathedral is São Franciso with its macabre Capella dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), which contains the remains of more than 5000 Franciscan monks on full display. The church itself is also very beautiful with its gilding, wood carvings, hand-painted azulejos and frescos.
Evora Museum – interesting collection of paintings, sculptures, tombstones, tiles and other art objects, the most memorable being a set of 13 painted panels from Bruges artists in the 14th C that depict the life of the Virgin Mary.
Museu do Artesanato e do Design (Artisanal & Design Museum) – a small engaging museum showcasing traditional handmade Portuguese crafts, much of them made of cork.
ARRAIOLOS – small village distinguished by appealing white houses with blue trim and the fame of its beautiful handmade embroidered wool carpets, an industry dating back to the early 17th C.
Tapetes de Arraiolos - We visited the carpet interpretive center where you can see how they are made, and spent some time in the main square.
RESTAURANTS
HOTEL SEVER RIO – this small hotel in Portagem near Marvão has a very nice restaurant which seems popular with locals and tourists. We had a perfect table on the outdoor patio overlooking the river. Service was friendly and efficient and we enjoyed trying the local specialties with a glass of local wine.
RESTAURANT FIALHO – a famous traditional restaurant in Evora. We thought the décor was the most appealing aspect of the place and that it’s resting on its laurels. The food was mediocre and service was uneven. We wouldn’t recommend it.
RESTAURANT S. LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL – we had breakfasts and dinners in the restaurant in our hotel. The dining room décor is quirky and attractive and the team was personable if not especially attentive. They also have a pretty outdoor patio but they allow smoking out there which spoiled it completely. Food was good but not great, though their estate wines are quite nice.
ALGARVE – 2 days
HOTEL
VILA JOYA Albufeira - Joya means jewel in Portuguese and that’s the perfect name for this hotel. It’s exquisite! We really regretted not having more time here. We loved everything about this hotel, the team who strive to make your stay as enjoyable as possible, the stylish and ultra-comfortable accommodations, the elegant public spaces, the pool, beach and the superb restaurant.
SIGHTS
Cabo São Vicente – southwestern most point of Portugal with spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean. There’s a handsome lighthouse that you cannot visit.
Fortress of Sagres - the headquarters of a 15th C School of Navigation created by Prince Henry the Navigator where sailors, astronomers and mathematicians were trained.
Ria Formosa Natural Park – quiet nature reserve with a variety of wading birds
OLHÃO – seaside fishermen’s town with a popular fish market and some interesting street murals.
TAVIRA – attractive town with an expansive square, Praça da República, and the 13th C Santa Maria do Castelo Church with its bell tower, clock tower and Gothic portal.
RESTAURANTS
TERRA – a casual café on road near Cape St. Vincent with outdoor seating, friendly service and tasty freshly prepared simple food. A good choice when in the area.
VILA JOYA RESTAURANT – Outstanding food and service in a gorgeous setting overlooking the sea. We dined on the outdoor patio one evening and at the Chef’s Table in the kitchen the next. Both were wonderful experiences. Breakfasts were also exceptional. It’s worth coming for a meal even if you don’t stay at the hotel.